246 ARTICLE TECHNIQUEPetits ARNs de plantes / Plant small RNAs Notes : semble reposée, renouvelée et éclairée ARNs, qui contiennent également des en avec moins de cernes le matin. composés bioactifs naturels et ainsi créer Nightessence est soluble dans l’eau et™ une nouvelle génération d’actifs plus verts peut être facilement formulé entre 0,5 % et naturels. ■ et 1 % pour différentes applications pour les concepts de « beauty sleep », « clean sleep », « good night », soin réparateur de Elodie OGER nuit, formulations de réinitialisation, “reset”Innovative technology & new product de la peau pendant la nuit, produits après- development team leader soleil contre l’effet du soleil noir « dark Justine COTTON sun», soins quotidiens pour se protéger Global Marketing Manager and du soleil et de l’oxydation induite par la New Business Development lumière, concepts cosmétiques associés Laura MOURET au décalage social, “social jet lag” et soins Research scientist, inspirés d’une approche neurocosmétique. Phytochemical research Conclusion Corinne MOREL, PhD Team leader, Phytochemical research L’adaptation de la plante dans son Florian LABARRADE environnement a inspiré l’extraction des Research scientist, Skin & Hair petits ARNs et phytomolécules d’intérêt Research, Artificial Intelligence, pour une solution anti-âge cosmétique Clinical & Tech Service innovante unique. Sur la base d’un savoir- Dr. Jean-Marie BOTTO, PhD faire interne des 10 dernières années Skin & Hair Research, Artificial dans la recherche épigénétique, Ashland Intelligence, Clinical & Tech Service a développé un processus d’extraction durable et innovant, permettant d’obte- BIOFUNCTIONAL AND NATURALS R&D Pe nir de extraits de plantes riches en petits ASHLAND process at night and messenger RNA illuminated skin with less dark circles quality control. by morning. Lifestyles, day light & sun can dysregu- Nightessence is water-soluble and™ late night-time processes. The light-at- can be easily formulated at 0.5% to night (LAN), described as the visible 1% for different applications such as light from artificial lighting including blue “beauty sleep”, “clean sleep”, “good light wavelengths can induce circadian night” concept, night repair cosmetic, disruptions and decrease of the nocturnal overnight skin reset formulations, after- melatonin synthesis. This can generate sun products against dark sun effect, oxidative stress, increase skin photodam- daily care to protect against sun & light- age and delay skin recovery at night. induced oxidation, cosmetic concepts Ashland Nightessence biofunctional™ associated with social jetlag and neuro- enhances the naturally occurring noctur- cosmetic approach. nal process that helps skin boost timezyme and melatonin to optimize skin’s noctol- Conclusion ogy associated with the skin’s repair, cleansing and reset at night to awaken Plant’s adaptation inspired the use with a new skin by morning. of small RNAs to support a unique innovative cosmetic anti-aging An answer to the growing solution. Based on our internal beauty sleep trend know-how through almost the past 10 years in epigenetic research, we With Nightessence, Ashland provides™ have developed an innovative sustain- an answer to the negative impact of able extraction process allowing the sleep problems at skin. Nightessence™ obtention of small RNA rich plant has been clinically proven in a cream extract, that contains also bioactive at 1% on volunteers with night shift compounds to create a new genera- work to give a rested, renewed and tion of biofunctional. ■ 2020 - Guide des ingrédients cosmétiques Expression Cosmétique