206 ARTICLE TECHNIQUECapillaire / Hair Notes : Des extraits de plante pour tion a, sur la peau et les cheveux. Ces protéger la peau et les deux actifs luttent de manière globale cheveux de la pollution contre ce mal actuel. Respirez, sentez, vivez, traitez votre peau naturellement ! ■ L’extrait de feuilles de framboisier (INCI : Glycerin(and) Water (and) Rubus idaeus Marlène DE MATOS leaf extract), développé par Berkem, a Responsable R&D cosmétique montré des résultats intéressants pour Cosmetic R&D Manager lutter contre ce mal urbain, réduisant l’irritation du cuir chevelu. Il élimine Julie DESPRES efficacement les molécules de pollution Chef de projet R&D cosmétique, service fixées dans les cheveux et neutralise les biologie Cosmetic R&D Manager, biology métaux lourds. Son action, après une department exposition à la pollution, ramène de la brillance et procure une sensation de bien-être. Hélène FOLIGUET L’extrait de thé vert (INCI : Palmitoyl Responsable marketing camellia sinensis extract) possède un Marketing Manager ensemble de propriétés, qui lutte contre les effets des polluants, et ralentit le BERKEM vieillissement cutané. Il re-oxygène la peau et la protège d’un vieillissement prématuré, luttant contre l’oxydation References: des lipides de la membrane. Comme mis en avant par Berkem, les Addin En.Reflist Boisnic, S. and M. C. Branchet (2005). feuilles de framboise et de thé vert ont EMC - Dermatologie-Cosmétologie 2(4): 232-241. montré d’intéressants résultats pour Evans (2019). Cosmetics & Toiletries 134(3): 32-42. C Evans, A., J. Marsh and R. Wickett (2011). International lutter contre les effets nocifs que la pollu- journal of cosmetic science 33(5): 477-482. a Fussell, J. C. and F. J. Kelly (2019). Free Radic Biol Med. Galliano, A., et al. (2017). International journal of cosmetic science 39(6): 610-616. Organization, W. H. (2016). “Ambient air pollution: A Effect on oxidative stress and global assessment of exposure and burden of disease.” • skin aging Qu, X., L. Niu, B. Kroon and L. Foltis (2018). Cosmetics Induced by pollution (also by UV rays 5(1): 17. and stress), free radicals cause oxidative damages in DNA, proteins, and lipids, which undergo changes and can no to fight against this urban harm, reduc- longer fulfill their function. The accumu- ing scalp irritation. It efficiently removes lation of oxidized compounds leads pollution molecules fixed on hair and to cellular dysfunction and accelerates neutralizes heavy metals. Its action, the cutaneous aging process. The lipid after a pollution exposure, brings back membrane oxidation level is decreased shine to hair and procures a well-being by 45% with green tea extract compa- sensation. red to the untreated control after UV Green tea extract (INCI : Palmitoyl irradiation. This anti-radical activity is camellia sinensis extract) has a set of four times higher than the one obtained properties, available to fight against with vitamin E, a leading antioxidant the effects of pollutants, to combat substance in cosmetics. Green tea extract cutaneous aging. It re-oxygenates the has therefore a powerful antioxidant skin and protects it from cutaneous effect in presence of pollutants. aging, fighting against oxidation of lipid membrane. Plant extracts to protect As highlighted by Berkem, raspberry body and hair and green tea leaves, have shown from pollution interesting effects acting on various adverse mechanisms of pollution, for Raspberry leaves extract (INCI : hair and skin. Those actives are fighting Glycerin (and) Water (and) Rubus holistically against this major consider- idaeus leaf extract), developed by ation. Breathe, feel, live, treat yourself Berkem, have shown interesting results naturally! ■ 2020 - Guide des ingrédients cosmétiques Expression Cosmétique