Canities / CanitieTECHNICAL ARTICLE 199 Canitie/ Canities Un duo végétal au pouvoir anti-grisonnement Le grisonnement des cheveux est un phénomène inéluctable. Les modifications biologiques inhérentes sont accélérées par l’action de radicaux libres générés par le stress environnemental. Lutte anti-oxydante, détoxification, viabilité cellulaire, qualité structurale de la tige pilaire sont autant de cibles à privilégier pour la repigmentation du cheveu. La canitie (grisonnement des procédé singulier concentrant l’efficacitélaire, deux leviers biologiques incontour- cheveux) est un phénomènecomplémentaire d’un duo végétal afin denables dans sa prise en charge ont été normal intervenant avec lepermettre aux chevelures grisonnantesciblés : l’action anti-radicalaire et l’effet vieillissement. Cependant,de retrouver leur couleur naturelle sans pro-pigmentant. les premiers reflets argentésrecourir aux colorations capillaires.La première étape a consisté à identi- peuvent être difficiles à assumer tant ils fier la matière première capable d’agir ont d’impacts sur l’âge perçu, d’où leUn procédé unique sur ces deux cibles biologiques. Pour souhait légitime de les dissimuler. Faceà ce constat, Silab propose un actif anti-Afin de répondre de manière efficace àce faire, la société a mené un largetestant sur des modèlesng, enscreeni Ca radicalaire et pro-pigmentant issu d’unla problématique du grisonnement capil-cellulaires plus d’une cinquantaine A plant duo with anti-gygp Hair greying is an inevitable phenomenon. Biological changes that occur in the normal course of aging are accelerated by the action of free radicals generated by environmental stress. Antioxidant activity, detoxification, cell viability and structural quality of the hair shaft are all aspects to target in order to favor hair repigmentation. Greying of hair is a normalphenomenon occurringduring aging.The firstsilvery reflections, however,In order to respond effectively to the issueA unique processhair, the two indispensablereinmost effective plant raw materials: theseeds of black oat (Avena strigosa) withan antioxidant action and the roots ofspiny restharrow (Ononis spinosa) with may be difficult to accept because theybiological levers in its treatment havea pigmenting effect. considerably affect perceived age,been targeted: the anti-free radical actionFollowing this identification, work was explaining the legitimate concern toand the pro-pigmenting effect.then conducted to optimize each of their mask them. In light of this, Silab presentsThe first step involved identifying thebiological efficacies. The research teams an anti-free radical and pro-pigmentingraw material capable of acting on theseemployed all of their know-how gained active ingredient, resulting from a uniquetwo biological targets. To this end, thefrom the development of biotechnologi- process that concentrates the complemen-company has carried out an extensivecal processes to perfect the extraction of tary efficacy of a plant duo, to allowscreening program, testing more thanthe molecules of interest from these two greying hair to regain its natural colorfifty natural raw materials on cellularplants. Many tests were run to select the without using hair dyes. models. This study identified the twoextraction solvents best suited and the The global information on cosmetics & fragrances Guide of cosmetic ingredients - 2020