Texture TECHNICAL ARTICLE 291 - Ramification : la présence de ramifi- on peut ainsi mieux répondre Notes : cation sur l’acide ou l’alcool apporte aux besoins du marketing et des un toucher plus léger, consommateurs. ■ - Insaturation : la présence d’insatu- ration sur l’acide ou l’alcool apporte Aude Lemoine-Dessaint également un toucher plus léger, Coordinatrice marketing Marketing coordinator - Polarité : lorsque la polarité augmente CRODA (notamment avec l’éthoxylation ou la propoxylation), on obtient un toucher plus léger et un meilleur étalement. References: Conclusion (1)Dederen, Visualizing the Impact of Emulsifi ers on Emulsion Perception, Cosmetics & Toiletries 128 (2013) La méthode développée par Sensory Spectrum a permis de mettre en™ avant l’impact des émulsionnants sur le toucher initial de l’émulsion et le rôle des émollients sur le toucher final. L’analyse des espaces sensoriels montre également que les émulsion- nants et les émollients peuvent offrir des sensorialités radicalement différentes. Ces analyses permettent aux formula- teurs de mieux comprendre et de définir précisément les propriétés senso- rielles d’une formule. En considérant la nature chimique des ingrédients, Te lise emulsions and make it possible to the acid or alcohol a lighter feel; incorporate large amounts of water in - Polarity: as polarity increases the internal phase, which can lead to (notably as a result of ethoxylation a quick-break effect that makes the or propoxylation) the formula starts to emulsion light and fluid upon appli- feel lighter and spread better. cation. Conclusion • The impact of emollient structure Emollients affect the lasting feel of The method developed by Sensory the emulsion until it is completely Spectrumhas helped to highlight™ absorbed. There are several different the impact that emulsifiers have on types of emollient, notably including the initial feel of the emulsion and alkoxylated fatty alcohols, hydrocar- the role that emollients play when it bons and esters. As is the case with comes to the lasting feel. An analysis surfactants, the structure of an ester of sensory spaces has also shown affects its sensory properties: that emulsifiers and emollients can - Chain length: the longer the chain, have radically differetn snsorye the oilier the connected or unsaturated properties. These analyses enable fatty acid and fatty alcohol become. formulators to better understand and Saturated fatty alcohols, meanwhile, accurately define the sensory proper- become heavier and more persistent. ties of a formula. It is possible, there- As the length of the chain increases, fore, to better meet both marketing the feel generally becomes richer; and consumer needs by taking into - Branching: branching gives the acid account the chemical nature of the or alcohol a lighter feel; ingredients used. ■ - Unsaturation: unsaturation also gives The global information on cosmetics & fragrances Guide of cosmetic ingredients - 2018