Pollution TECHNICAL ARTICLE 271 rhodomyrtone inhibe la prolifération Emilie Bridon Sandie Gervason de Propionibacterium acnes (13). Afi n Chargée d’étude au laboratoire Chargée d’étude en microbiologie de mettre en évidence les propriétés développement des actifs Microbiology Researcher multifonctionnelles d’Acnilysen tant® Researcher, Active Ingredients Development Laboratory Justine Demangeon qu’ingrédient actif anti-acné, nous Chef de projet en communication avons développé différents modèles Edwige Ranouille Communication Project Manager cellulaires et une étude in vivo pour Responsable des laboratoires démontrer l’effi cacité d’Acnilys sur® Head of laboratories Jean-Yves Berthon la prévention de l’hyperséborrhée, la PDG Carine Boutot CEO limitation de la prolifération de P. acnes Chargée d’étude au laboratoire et de ses effets délétères et sur la développement des actifs Edith Filaire réduction de l’infl ammation induite par Researcher, Active Ingredients Directrice scientifique la dysseborrhée. La Figure 4 résume Development Laboratory Scientific director ces résultats. GREENTECH Mathieu Bey Responsable du pôle Santé Bien-être Conclusion Head of the Health and Nutrition Division Les facteurs environnementaux tels References: que les polluants atmosphériques et les UVs sont associées à la produc- (1)McDaniel D, et al. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, (8)Larrieu S, et al. American Journal Epidemiology, tion d’EROs, induisant une cascade 17: 124-137, 2018. 169: 1201-1208, 2009. de voies de signalisations cellulaires (2)Krutmann J, et al. Clinical, Cosmetic Investigational (9)Lai TNH et al. Food Chemistry, 168 : 410-416, Dermatology, 10: 199-204, 2017. 2015. conduisant à des dommages cutanés. (3)Chun JN, et al. Fitoterapia, 97: 224-33, 2014. (10)Hao G, et al. Food Sciences Technolology, 79: Le département R&D de Greentech a (4)Guo LY, et al. European Journal Pharmacology, 4:260-266, 2017. présenté trois actifs nommés Urbalys,® 293-299, 2008. (11)Docherty JJ, et al. Journal Antimicrobial Solibérine et Acnilys pour protéger la® ® (5)Lin Q, et al. International Immunopharmacology, 49:Chemotherapy, 59: 1182-1184, 2007. 142-147, 2017. (12)Shiratake S, et al. Molecular Medicine Reports, 12: peau et préserver sa santé de manière (6)Ranouille E, et al. Cosmetics, (in press), 20185857-64, 2015. durable. ■ (7)Korkina LG et al. Cellular Molecular Biology, 53: 84-91, 2007. (13)Wunnoo S, et al. Anaerobe, 43 : 61-68, 2017. Po • Piceatannol and Rhodomyrtone pharmacognosy expertise, Greentech proliferation of Propionibacte- An increasing number of studies Research has focused on hodomyr-R rium acnes (13). In order to highlight the indicate a link between skin problems tus tomentosa (RT), all parts of this plant ® and exposure to airborne pollutants (2, 8). (leaves, roots, buds and fruits) having as anti-acne active ingredient, we As mentioned by Krutman et al. (2), a been used in traditional Vietnamese, developed different cellular models skin care product dedicated to acne Chinese and Malaysian medicine for and an in vivo study to demonstrate may provide a protective barrier from ages. Acnilys® efficacy in the prevention pollution, restore microbiome balance to Ellagitannins, stilbenes, anthocyanins, of hyperseborrhea, the limitation of prevent the overabundance of bacteria fl avonols and phenolic acids are the P. acnes proliferation and its delete- (including Propionibacterium acnes), the phenolic compounds identifi ed in the rious effects, and on the reduction of colonization and control the severity of fruit (9). Among them, piceatannol, a dysseborrhea induced infl ammation . diseases and post infl ammatory pigmen- stilbene, has biological activities, inclu- Figure 4 summarizes theses results. tation, which is a concern to Asian ding antioxidant (10), anti-infl ammatory, populations. Moreover, the product anti-microbial properties (11), and is Conclusion needs to have suffi cient UVA and UVB photo-protective candidate for UV-ind protection (2). Pathophysiology of acne uced skin damage (12). RT also contains Environmental causes such as airborne involves three factors, hyperseborrhoea acylphloroglucinols with rhodomyrtone pollutants and UVs are associated with and dysseborrhea, abnormal follicular as the main compound. Rhodomyrtone the production of ROS, inducing a keratinization and P. acnes proliferation showed a strong antibacterial activity cascade of cellular pathways leading in the pilosebaceous unit. Thus, acne against a wide range of Gram-positive toskin alterations, including oily skins. requires a complete action on all identi- pathogenic bacteria, as well as anti- Greentech Research proposed three fi ed targets to achieve the balance of biofilm properties against staphylo- active named Urbalys, Soliberine,® ® healthy and clear skin. cocci causing severe infections. More and Acnilys to preserve the skin and® Based on its ethnopharmacology and specifi cally rhodomyrtone inhibits the maintain its health in a global way. ■ The global information on cosmetics & fragrances Guide of cosmetic ingredients - 2018