Boussoles à la page Turning heads The Chaumet jewelry house has assembled its most dazzling tiaras, after embarking on a search that resembled a treasure hunt. Precious vestiges of their time, these jewels are being exhibited in Monaco this summer. A tiara is a fragment of history—that of illustrious dynasties and ornament, more extravagant and more personal than the famous women. This shines through the summer exhibition at crown, illustrating humanity’s taste for splendor and grandeur, the Grimaldi Forum in Monaco, which brings togetherand the need to display strong, even primal symbols to 250 pieces of jewelry created by Chaumet. Only ten are missing, demonstrate one’s importance. Among the motifs found either lost or seized over the centuries as a result of war or revo- in tiaras are wheat ears, associated with female fertility; laurel lution. “In times of crisis, family jewels are often the first thing and acanthus leaves, conveying honor and glory; more to go,” explains expert Christophe Vachaudez, the exhibition’s esoteric symbols linked to stars and seashells; and others curator. For a year, he tirelessly hunted down these fabulous and borrowed from mythology. sometimes curious objects of veneration. “I’m the Hercule Poirot of jewelry,” he says, smiling. He delved into the Chaumet Family jewels But what comes across most powerfully in this archives to unearth the pieces and retrace their history. collection of treasures is the tiara’s sentimental dimension. The jewelry house has an exceptionally rich collection of docu- The principle of transmission from one generation to the next ments, stored at Place Vendôme in Paris. Every tiara was drawn permeates the entire exhibition. Since the 18th century, in gouache or photographed as it left the workshops, so the head ornaments have sealed unions of marriage within the great designs were easily identifiable. To track them down, Vachaudez aristocratic families. They are passed down from woman had to work his way through the complicated family trees to woman through the generations.Kate Middleton of grand dukes and princes, research auction sales and identify wore Queen Elizabeth’s tiara for her wedding. “Most of the ingenious mechanisms of certain tiaras (some having been the pieces are still in the possession of prominent families. The designed to be worn in different ways or converted over the Grand Duchess of Luxembourg, for example, owns thirteen years into necklaces, brooches or earrings). tiaras,” says Vachaudez. Many of the tiaras on show come from these noble lineages (Vachaudez worked closely with Stéphane Waxing lyrical Among the finds are some extraordinarilyBern throughout the project). But it was not easy to obtain these beautiful pieces, whose designs reflect changing artistic move- loans: owners were often loath to part with their tiaras for sev- ments, from Neoclassical to Art Deco. A noteworthy example eral months. “It’s touching, because these families never talk is the diamond bandeau belonging to Maeda Kikuko, a perfect about the diamonds and stones, only of their sentimental value.” reflection of the flowing fashions of the 1920s. But visitors will Modern, updated versions of the tiara are now being designed. be fascinated not only by the aesthetics of the tiara, but also its Since the 1920s, when tiaras spread beyond the upper political role. Chaumet’s founder, Marie-Étienne Nitot, was crust and started to be worn by a less aristocratic clientele, official jeweler to Napoleon Bonaparte. The emperor, known including actresses, cabaret dancers and famous socialites, for his obsession with elegance, often gifted head ornaments they have even taken on a feminist slant. It is no coincidence to ladies as a way of flaunting France’s power to the world. that William Moulton Marston’s character Wonder Woman It became one of Empress Joséphine’s trademark accessories. wears one to display her powers. A tiara signals self-assurance Her famous tiara of natural pearls and cameos today adorns and reinforces status. “Chaumet still receives many commis- the crowned heads of Sweden. sions from Asia and the Gulf countries,” adds Vachaudez. In ancient Rome and Greece, the diadem or jeweled headband Some are made for powerful professional women, who choose was a “civil crown,” originally worn as a symbol of devotion to wear tiaras at important events in the presence of their male to the gods. Sported by divinatory figures and Olympicsubordinates. Aristocratic families, on the other hand, champions, it became, under Alexander the Great, anno longer commission these pieces: they hold on to the jewels emblem of royal dignity. During the Roman Empire, it was that symbolize and embody their nobility, in the firm embellished with emeralds and sapphires. It is a fascinating knowledge that they are in possession of a piece of history. Ceinture de style gothique ayant appartenu Broche croissant de lune transformable en à l’impératrice Marie-Louise, aigrette, or, argent et perles fines, vers 1890. or, perles naturelles et onyx, 1813. Crescent moon brooch, which Gothic-style belt that belonged to Empress Marie- can be turned into an aigrette, with gold, Louise, gold, natural pearls and onyx, 1813. silver and natural pearls, c. 1890. La comtesse de Mountbatten, portant un diadème Diadème Fleurs de pensée, Chaumet au couronnement de George VI, 1937. argent, or et diamants, 1850. Countess Mountbatten, wearing a Chaumet tiara Pansy flower tiara, silver, gold at the coronation of George VI, 1937. and diamonds, 1850. 78 7391 ,ednoveY emadaM - siraP ,temuahC noitcelloC ©