CONTENTS 005 70 80 146 178 Dossier Special report • Comprendre / Understanding • Actualités • Actualités • Actualités Cosmétognosie : News p.80 News p.146 News p.178 l'innovation à tous les étages Cosmetognosis: • Lancements • Profil / Profile • Nominations innovation at every level p.70 Launches p.102 SPPC p.160 Appointments p.184 • Cosmetic Valley : • Enquête / Feature • Lancements Cosmétosciences Émulsionnants verts Launches p.162 Université de Tours Green emulsifiers p.126 University of Tours p.78 • Enquête / Feature • DOSSIER / SPECIAL REPORT Parfums éco-conçus Upcycling & local sourcing: Eco-designed perfums p.168 repenser les circuits rethinking the circuits p.132 Editorial "The house is on fire," said the President following the example of Benefit of the COP26, Alok Sharma. Last Corporations stemming from the French September, six scientific journals warned Loi Pacte; a system for rating the of the effects of higher temperatures environmental impact of the products on human health and biodiversity... of five beauty heavyweights – L'Oréal, This was the main topic of the IUCN LVMH, Natura, Henkel and Unilever – or World Conservation Congress in the eco-thinking site and the automated Marseille – which defined a decalogue of factory of Technicoflor. priorities to be put in place to safeguard At a time of "never lists", Expression biodiversity – and the subject of the latest Cosmétique sheds light on sustainable Febea guide, which lists good practices and responsible sourcing (p.132) and the in cosmetics concerning preservation. eco-design of fragrances (p.168) while Shouldn't every native or recycled deciphering how to create active formulas resource be considered a rare resource (p.34) viaan approach integrating to protect? cosmetognosis (p.70). To maximise the According to the latest Edelman effectiveness of the formula and minimise barometer, 60% of consumers trust unnecessary ingredients for sustainable, companies more than governments responsible but still attractive cosmetics. to act positively on the planet. The In the "evening" light of the health crisis, shape-shifting commitments of beauty this autumn sets the stage for a return to companies are beginning to emerge, the future! To be continued... ■ The global information on cosmetics & fragrancesSeptember / October 2021- N°71 RechReesrecahrcehIngréIdngieren d tiesn tsPar fuPmerfeumri eeryBus iBnuess ins ess