136 INGRÉDIENTSDossier / Special report l’upcycling est fondamentalement lié à des innovations techno- logiques qui rendent possibles l’accès et la valorisation de matières atypiques. Ainsi, grâce à un trans- fert de technologie, Givaudan a été capable de capturer et concentrer l’huile essentielle contenue dans des phases aqueuses et donnant lieu à des notes aromatiques inédites. New Peach Alcoholate Orpur™ est obtenu à partir d’un coproduit du jus de pêche et donne lieu à la première huile essentielle de pêche. Fait remarquable, déjà observé à partir de citrus, sa A qualité olfactive restitue assez BASÉE SUR LA TECHNOLOGIE SYMTRAP PERMETTANT DE CAPTURER LES précisément ce qu’on obtient en MOLÉCULES VOLATILES CONTENUES DANS LES EAUX RÉSIDUELLES DE LA croquant dans le fruit. DISTILLATION OU DES JUS DE FRUITS, LA COLLECTION GARDEN LAB DE SYMRISE PROPOSE DES INGRÉDIENTS POUR LA PARFUMERIE, ISSUS DE LÉGUMES, AU Chez Symrise, la technologie CROISEMENT DE L’UPCYCLING ET DU SOURCING LOCAL. SymTrap (Photo A) permet égale- BASED ON SYMTRAP TECHNOLOGY, WHICH CAPTURES THE VOLATILE ment de capturer les molécules MOLECULES CONTAINED IN THE RESIDUAL WATER FROM DISTILLATION OR FRUIT JUICES, SYMRISE’S GARDEN LAB COLLECTION PROVIDES PERFUME volatiles contenues dans les eaux INGREDIENTS DERIVED FROM VEGETABLES, AT THE CROSSROADS OF résiduelles de la distillation ou des UPCYCLING AND LOCAL SOURCING. jus de fruits. Au croisement de tally linked to technological innova- of bioactive molecules. This is las (loose and compacted powders) tions that make it possible to access particularly the case with the Red as well as a mattifying effect. But, and develop atypical materials. UP collection developed from beyond their sensory properties, Hence, through technology trans- cranberries with an extract of the these powders also allow forming fer, Givaudan was able to capture pomace concentrated in proan- Pickering emulsions. This is the and concentrate the essential oil thocyanidins, water rich in AHAs, subject of a research and innova- contained in aqueous phases and developed from the residual water tion programme conducted in colla- resulting in novel aromatic notes. originating from the production of boration with AgroParisTech. This New Peach Alcoholate Orpur™ the fruit juice, and an oil obtained work has led to three publications is obtained from a co-product of from the cold pressing of the seeds. and will be intensified in 2021, peach juice, thus resulting in the This dynamic does not only concern with the CLEVER thesis topic started first peach essential oil. Remar- co-products from related industries in February, aimed at extending kably, as already observed with such as food or perfumery. At its this expertise to the development citrus fruit, its olfactory characteris- Jacksonville, Florida plant, Symrise of other co-products in Pickering tics reproduce quite precisely what has been investigating the isola- emulsions. you get when you bite into the fruit. tion and recovery of terpenes from At Symrise, the SymTrap technology CST (Crude Sulphate Turpentine), A production (Photo A) also allows capturing the a co-product of the paper industry ecosystem volatile molecules contained in the that would otherwise remain residual water coming from the unused. From alpha-pinene and In fact, for many players, upcycling distillation or fruit juices. At the beta-pinene, a series of molecules is not so much about a specific value crossroads of upcycling and local are synthesised for perfume appli- proposition for an ingredient as it is sourcing, it led to the launch in cations. about a real production system at 2020 of the Garden Lab collec- For several years now, JRS has the very heart of the development of tion of natural perfumery ingre- been offering ultra-fine sensory some industries, if not of the entire dients extracted from vegetables. powders made from food industry business. Based on an adsorption-desorption co-products (apple, orange, oats). In this respect, the example of process, its field of application As an alternative to synthetic and Expanscience’s use of avocado has gradually been extended to plastic powders, they add softness co-products is quite telling. Last the extraction and concentration to liquid and solid cosmetic formu- year, the company launched, after N°71 - Septembre / Octobre 2021Expression Cosmétique