138 INGRÉDIENTSDossier / Special report ment économique et social des acteurs LE PROGRAMME locaux. Sur ce modèle, d’autres lignes RAMBUTAN DE BASF ont été développées autour du fruit de AU VIETNAM INTÈGRE la passion, de la maca ou du lupin. L’ORGANISATION ET LA CRÉATION La présence dans plusieurs DE DEUX JARDINS domaines d’activité et l’acquisition BIOLOGIQUES DANS de nouvelles sociétés ont naturelle- LA PROVINCE DE DONG NAI. ment conduit Givaudan à dévelop- BASF’S RAMBUTAN per une vision complémentaire et PROGRAMME IN holistique des plantes, propre à VIETNAM INCLUDES THE ORGANISATION optimiser les biomasses utilisées. AND CREATION Depuis 2017, l’upcycling fait ainsi OF TWO ORGANIC l’objet d’un groupe de travail interne GARDENS IN THE DONG NAI et inter-division visant à repenser la PROVINCE. conception des ingrédients. Certains B des derniers lancements de Givau- dan Active Beauty sont déjà issus et des sucres, leur 6 ingrédient issue coproduits de l’industrie alimentaire. de cette démarche. Vétivyne est un™ de l’avocat, baptisé précisément La filière avocat s’articule autour de anti-âge extrait des racines de vétiver Number 6, un actif contour des la valorisation de fruits déclassés non issues d’une première extraction pour yeux. Inscrivant l’upcycling dans son exportables du Pérou, du Mexique et la parfumerie. Omegablue est un® ADN de marque, la société certifiée d’Afrique du Sud. Elle s’appuie sur des actif réparateur obtenu à partir du B Corp, s’attache à développer des partenariats locaux établis au cours surcyclage des graines de myrtille, ingrédients cosmétiques issus de des 20 dernières années et s’attache coproduit de l’extraction des antho- filières durables, et notamment à à promouvoir une agriculture durable cyanes utilisées dans le domaine des partir de produits déclassés ou de et biologique, ainsi que le développe- compléments alimentaires. oils, esters, exfoliating powders, Givaudan to develop a complemen- Holistic to consider all the possible peptides and sugars, their 6th tary and holistic approach to plants, outlets for a material. Systemic to ingredient derived from avocado, to optimise the used biomass. Since address all stages of the value appropriately dubbed Number 6, 2017, upcycling has been the chain from farm to fork. From an active ingredient for the eye focus of an internal, cross-divisio- agricultural raw materials, mainly contour. With upcycling as part nal working group to rethink the corn, peas, wheat and potatoes, of its brand DNA, the B Corp design of ingredients. Some of Roquette develops solutions for certified company is committed to Givaudan Active Beauty’s latest the food, pharmaceutical and developing cosmetic ingredients launches have already stemmed industrial sectors, leading to an from sustainable sources, in parti- from this approach. Vetivyne is™ activity that is already below 1% cular from downgraded products an anti-ageing ingredient extracted waste. More recently, the Beauty or co-products from the food from the roots of the vetiver plant, by Roquette initiative extends the industry. The avocado sector is which is primarily extracted for the scope of product applications organised around the development perfumery industry. Omegablue is® to cosmetics. The catalogue is of non-exportable downgraded a repairing active obtained from growing rapidly with an offer fruit from Peru, Mexico and South the upcycling of blueberry seeds, of cyclodextrins, organic acids, Africa. It relies on local partner- a co-product of the extraction of polyols, starches and functional ships established over the past 20 anthocyanins used in food supple- systems involving novel combina- years and is focused on promoting ments. tions. However, far from limiting sustainable and organic agricul- At Roquette, a French specia- itself to functional ingredients, ture, as well as the economic and list in biobased products, the the agility that is intrinsic to the social development of local players. company’s entire economic and biorefinery approach also led Following this model, other ranges manufacturing system is based Roquette to take a look at active have been developed around from the outset on the optimisa- ingredients. A partnership with passion fruit, maca or lupine. tion of biomass in biorefineries. Sytheon has for instance resulted The presence in several business Christophe Rupp Dahlem, Head in the development of new active areas and the acquisition of new of Global Public Affairs, calls this ingredients derived from isosor- companies have naturally led a holistic and systemic approach. bide, a compound already used N°71 - Septembre /Octobre 2021Expression Cosmétique