134 INGRÉDIENTSDossier / Special report THE BODY SHOP GAMME BATH BLEND BATH BLEND RANGE de naturalité ou un label bio ! cultures biologiques, les circuits coupées lors de la « scozzolatura » Aiguillonné par la demande, on voit courts (2 heures de transport de qui vise à faciliter la culture de donc un peu partout émerger des la plantation jusqu’à l’usine) et les fruits plus généreux. Renegrape, un propositions construites sur des process écoresponsables (75 % peeling végétal, est obtenu à partir matières sur-cyclées. d’énergie renouvelable utilisée). de la séparation des sucres et des Depuis plusieurs années déjà, À leur catalogue, l’Opuntia acides organiques du moût de Inter Actifs valorise le concept à Biocomplex SH est un anti-âge raisin. L’actif amincissant Flavoslim travers l’offre de ses commettants, riche en polysaccharides extrait est un coproduit de la production notamment l’italien Bionap. La des jeunes cladodes du figuier de d’huile essentielle de bergamote et société privilégie en effet les barbarie. Celles-ci sont d’ordinaire extrait du jus de fruit. Au catalogue through its principals, particularly by DKSH, which proposes the impact on drinking water resources, the Italian company Bionap, which upcycled offerings from its partners. they help to reduce the freshwater gives priority to organic crops, short Cosun Biobased Products for its footprint of cosmetic formulations. circuits (2 hours of transport from functional solutions derived from Solabia is launching a collection of the plantation to the factory) and beet (Betafib, a parenchymal® extracts based on Cascara (Glyce- eco-responsible processes (75% cellulose microfibre positioned as rolate, Oleate, Eau and an Ecomilk renewable energy used). In their a rheology modifier) or chicory titrated in active molecules). catalogue, Opuntia Biocomplex roots (the Quatinrange of catio-® Cascara, a by-product of the coffee SH is an anti-ager rich in polysac- nic biopolymers). Radiant, with industry, is the pulp of the coffee charides extracted from the young Florant-FG ecoplandly, a Ginseng™ cherry, which is obtained after the cladodes of the prickly pear tree. flower extract, or Ecoplandly-Sake extraction of the coffee bean. This These are usually cut during the which combines the properties of husk, which was previously left on “scozzolatura” which aims to facili- Sake lees and a ferment filtrate. site as compost, is now the subject tate the cultivation of more generous The Portuguese company EFP Biotek of new recovery strategies. Cascara fruits. Renegrape, a vegetable peel, and its solutions, derived from is naturally rich in antioxidants and is obtained from the separation of co-products of olive oil extraction caffeine, giving it energising and sugars and organic acids from grape including squalane and vegetable anti-ageing properties. must. The slimming active Flavoslim squalene. The Spanish company This is where we reach a point of is a co-product from the production EG Active, which develops active tension or astonishment. On the one of bergamot essential oil and is ingredients from the residual water hand, upcycling brings into play extracted from the fruit juice. The of olive oil production, including residuals, waste and downgraded Inter Actifs catalogue also includes OA Hidroxitirosol, a powerful materials. On the other, it intro- original active ingredients from the antioxidant. duces novelty and maintains a Japanese company Technoble: Bijyo In 2019, Seppic launched the close link to innovation. Haku, an anti-ager developed from Hydralixr range, a collection of sake lees, and Re-Saffron DC, which original and responsible vegetable An innovation catalyst uses the petals of the saffron flower, waters sourced from the marine of which until now only the pistils world. These are co-products of For Fabien Durand, Naturals were used to produce the spice. algae extraction. Produced with Fragrance Innovation Director at The same approach was adopted low energy consumption and a low Givaudan, upcycling is fundamen- N°71 - Septembre / Octobre 2021Expression Cosmétique