Feature / Enquête FORMULATION 043 and encapsulation system for water- cal actives, the innovation benefits ions, it maintains active ingredients insoluble active ingredients, JRS GeniAlis’, own brand of organic in their purest state and facilitates emulsifies without surfactants. These cosmetics, La Nouvelle Botanique, their blending in the formulation with are stabilised by steric hindrance which offers its skin repair cream no addition of functional ingredients using solid particles and are made treatment combining hydrolats and required for their stabilisation. With with JRS vegetable powders of essential oils (Photo 2). Originating no caustic effect on the skin, objec- apple (Vitacell CS 5 Apple) or from a Japanese medical technology, tive tests have shown its ability to oats (Vitacell CS 5 Oat) (Figure 2). whose benefits have been approved strengthen the skin barrier. GeniAlis Biotech, with its patented by pharmacopoeia, Advanced HydroFeeling process, uses high® Water S-100 from Adwatis is multi- For maximum efficiency, the study of and low-frequency ultrasound functional active water. With a bioavailability is consistent with the with charge gravitation to create high pH of 12 but low basicity, this trend towards minimalist formulas, nanodroplets inside a cold- alkaline water facilitates formulation supporting the use of small quanti- processed stable emulsion. Guaran- with virtually 100% of active ingredi- ties of an active ingredient but with teeing high preservation of botani- ents. Rich in minerals and negative tenfold assimilation. ■ How to assess the bioavailability of an active? To commercialise effective products, cosmetic laboratories study the composition of products and their absorption capacity through the horny layer. What is the objective? To optimise the bio-accessibility of the actives by recommending the best vector. OxiProteomics’ formula screening It is based on the evaluation of the efficacy of actives and formulas through the analysis of biomarkers. OxiProteomics compares different technologies (nano-emulsion vs. simple emulsion) and FIGURE : galenics to assist its IEA– PAOT SCAN.® clients in their choice L’AIRE SOUS LA GAUSSIENNE REPRÉSENTE of a formulation. L’ACTIF VECTORISÉ BIODISPONIBLE EN FONCTION DU TEMPS. THE AREA UNDER THE GAUSSIAN REPRESENTS THE BIOAVAILABLE VECTORISED ACTIVE AS A FUNCTION OF THE TIME. of clinical samples. remain non-invasive. To a centre of analysis, stratum corneum. Such as in vitro tests bridge the gap between expertise and advice This rapid in vivo test performed on 3D ex vivo and clinical on antioxidants which analyses the behaviour models of reconstructed use, Bioalternatives offers, in parallel with of antioxidant active epidermis or skin to uses successive its portfolio of physico- ingredients according to assess the efficacy D-squames – a tape® chemical and cellular a protocol for measuring of a facilitator after stripping method – to studies, a clinical the concentrations of topical application descend into superficial assay to indicate molecules released into (radiolabelled caffeine skin layers. The test the concentration the body as a function diffusion test). Or ex vivo can be performed on of active ingredients of time (Figure). For tests performed on any part of the body bio-assimilated by additional customisation Franz cells under OECD and facilitates the the skin using the guideline 428. The study analysis of biomarkers PAOT Scan. This® of the formulas tested, of the bioavailability by chromatography non-invasive skin patch the IEA also estimates in the clinical phase coupled to mass allows the simultaneous the cellular age of the remains tricky in spectrometry. recovery of active skin cells, a factor cosmetics because it A new player, the substances, free radicals that has an impact must, from a regulatory European Institute of and antioxidants from on the exploitation of and ethical point of view, Antioxidants (EIA) is the dermis to the bioavailability results. ■ The global information on cosmetics & fragrances September / October 2021- N°71