Sourcing INGREDIENTS 093 molecular composition in order to secure its sourcing. In this objective, a botanical expertise (Figure 1 ) and an analytical profi le by HPTLC (High performance thin- layer chromatography) and HPLC (High pressure liquid chromatography) (Figure 2) were carried out on starting samples then compared with certifi ed reference samples. This study enabled to confi rm that the starting sample was that of the species Helichrysum stoechas. Secondly, a blind evaluation by DNA barcoding of the starting sample concluded that this sample was from the Helichrysum gender, probably of the stoechas species. By completing these data with an organo- leptic profi le (odor, color, etc.) and colori- metric assay (protein rate, carbohydrate rate, etc.) of the starting sample, Silab established an accurate “identity card” FIGURE 1: of the species Helichrysum stoechas. This EXEMPLE DE CARACTÉRISATIONS BOTANIQUES MACROSCOPIQUES (GROSSISSEMENTS X15 ET X25) ET MICROSCOPIQUES extensive characterization is an essential (GROSSISSEMENTS X100 ET X400) D’ÉCHANTILLONS DE PLANTES EN COMPARAISON À DES ÉCHANTILLONS CERTIFIÉS DE step to guarantee the quality of the future HELICHRYSUMSTOECHAS. supplies of this plant raw material for EXAMPLE OF A BOTANICAL MACROSCOPIC (X15 AND X25 MAGNIFICATIONS) AND MICROSCOPIC (X100 AND X400 MAGNIFICATIONS) active ingredients industrial production. CHARACTERIZATION OF A STARTING PLANT IN COMPARISON TO A CERTIFIED PLANT OF HELICHRYSUM STOECHAS. Ensuring a standardized and sustainable sourcing of shrubby everlasting Several species of the Helichrysum gender are morphologically similar and can lead to confusion, notably in case of sourcing by wild harvesting which is under prefectural authorization. In this context, an agrono- mic approach was conducted by Silab over a four years period in partnership with French farmers. The best conditions of cultivation, harvesting and transformation to obtain a plant raw material fulfi lling Silab FIGURE 2: quality requirements were determined by A. PROFILS HPTLC DE L’ÉCHANTILLON TESTÉ (CS3008) EN COMPARAISON À DIFFÉRENTS ÉCHANTILLONS DE comparison with the reference identity RÉFÉRENCE CERTIFIÉS D’HELICHRYSUM STOECHAS./ HPTLC PROFILES OF THE TESTED STARTING SAMPLE (CS3008) card of the validated starting plant and/ IN COMPARISON TO DIFFERENT CERTIFIED REFERENCE SAMPLES OF CERTIFIED HELICHRYSUM SPECIES. or by comparing the effi cacy of resulting B. PROFILS HPLC DE L’ÉCHANTILLON TESTÉ (S10764) EN COMPARAISON À DIFFÉRENTS ÉCHANTILLONS DE active ingredients. This study resulted in the RÉFÉRENCE D’HELICHRYSUMSTOECHAS./ HPLC PROFILES OF THE TESTED STARTING SAMPLE (S10764) IN COMPARISON TO DIFFERENT CERTIFIED REFERENCE SAMPLES OF HELICHRYSUM SPECIES. achievement of a multi-year harvest contract signed directly with farmers of the Charente- Maritime Department of France (Figure 3). Hence, these intensive research work secures Silab’s supply in shrubby everlasting (Helichrysum stoechas). Oligosaccharides, FIGURE 3: isolated from this plant by a standardized CHAMPS D’HELICHRYSUM STOECHAS SILAB ET process of extraction and purifi cation in LEUR LOCALISATION EN water, stimulate tissue regeneration in the FRANCE. / SILAB FIELDS OF course of aging and optimize functions and HELICHRYSUM STOECHAS appearance of the skin. ■ AND THEIR LOCALIZATION IN FRANCE. L. Verzeaux, D. Boudier, D. Laporte, S. Le Davadic, B Closs SILAB, France The global information on cosmetics & fragrances September / October 2018- N°53