038 FORMULATIONTendances / Trends 8 SHAMPOOING EN pris d’assaut la catégorie des dentifrices PASTILLES NATURAL à croquer avec la marque Lush qui a SHAMPOO initié cet usage (Photo 9). TABLETS Les bombes de bain, plus grosses, - BEN & ANNA sont aussi des poudres compressées 9 DENTIFRICE pour lesquelles Merck propose des SOLIDE formules d’application. Et, pour amélio- SOLID rer la stabilité des galéniques efferves- TOOTHPASTE - LUSH 8 9 centes dans l’atmosphère humide de la salle de bain, Jungbunzlauer, 10 EAU MICELLAIRE distribué par Ami Ingrédients, propose SOLIDE EFFERVESCENTE un acide citrique enrobé de citrate SOLID de monosodium : le Citrocoat N10. EFFERVESCENT Moins hygroscopique et moins réactif MICELLAR WATER - PARIS DOME que l’acide citrique standard, il permet 10 d’éviter les réactions prématurées avec 11 GEL DOUCHESOLIDE À le bicarbonate de soude. Les produits DISSOUDRE obtenus sont stables plus longtemps SOLID SHOWER et ne perdent pas de poids pendant GEL TO DISOLVE leur stockage, tout en conservant une - 900 CARE surface régulière. Les laboratoires 12 NETTOYANT Paris Dôme, sous-traitant cosmétique, VISAGE EN innovent avec des designs carrés pour POUDRE FACE CLEANSING 11 une application d’eau micellaire concen- POWDER - YODI BEAUTY 13 COLOR TRANS-FOAMING MASK COLOR TRANS-FOAMING MASK galenic approach to hair care. Azelis - GATTEFOSSE 12 13 and Merck have worked on formu- las of foaming cleansing powders, shapes. Pressed in pans or in the form less reactive than standard citric acid, based on the model of Yodi products of tablets, spheres, cubes or cylinders, it prevents premature reactions with (Photo 12), which require the addition they have many designs and applica- sodium bicarbonate. The resulting of water to generate a lather that will tions. The ones in tablet form have products are stable for a longer period cleanse the epidermis. Loose powders various uses. Azelis offers them in an and do not lose weight during storage are very good carriers in transforma- effervescent form to hydrate, to create while maintaining an even surface. tion textures. For instance, Gattefossé a body care product or a solid shower Laboratoires Paris Dôme, a cosmetic proposes a Color Trans-foaming gel to re-solubilise. JRS Rettenmaier subcontractor, innovates with square Mask (Photo 13), a pale pink powder formulates instant single-dose shampoo designs for a concentrated micel- that turns into a green cream after tablets with compacting binders and lar water application to solubilize adding water. Merck plays the card disintegrants, which make the product (Photo 10), while the 900.Care brand of powder masks to be hydrated with easier to use. The German brand Ben markets a shower gel to dissolve, in the a peel-off and a clay-based version. & Anna markets this type of formula form of a small stick (Photo 11 ). JRS Rettenmaier makes the most of for shampoo and shower gel appli- alginates in peel-off masks and instant cations (Photo 8). Tablets have taken Liquid formats powders based on creamy ingredients the chewable toothpaste category by combined with rheology agents that storm with the brand Lush pioneering Freed from the shaping stage charac- swell or form gels in contact with water. this trend (Photo 9). teristic of solids, liquid forms point to The larger bath bombs are also other sensory avenues. - Gels and oils compressed powders for which Merck Although gel textures are seldom offers application formulas. And, to - Loose powders found in waterless products, the New improve the stability of effervescent These split solids have the particular- Zealand brand Skinnies has put it dosage forms in the damp atmosphere ity of flowing. Mostly for make-up to good use. Skinnies Organogels™ of the bathroom, Jungbunzlauer, distrib- purposes and, to a lesser extent, for (Photo 14) are anhydrous gels that uted by Ami Ingrédients, proposes citric perfuming, loose powders are also form a thin layer on the skin’s surface, acid coated with monosodium citrate: used for hygiene and skincare. Dry maintaining sun filters in place. Unlike Citrocoat N10. Less hygroscopic and shampoos are an example of this emulsions, water does not evaporate N°70 - Juillet / Août 2021Expression Cosmétique