Feature / Enquête INGREDIENTS 137 preservative-free formulas thanks to its range for hypersensitive skin (Photo 4) is expertise in sterilization. For a long time enriched with D-sensinose, a postbio™ tic reserved for the food industry because acting on sensory neurons to control skin of its impact on the viscosity of foaming hypersensitivity. The three references formulas or that of high viscosity creams, (extremely gentle cleanser, soothing skin CL Tech has developed a solution, recovery cream and soothing skin recovery patented internationally, of indirect UHT balm) are available in pharmacies. sterilisation controlled at 135-145°C. By adjusting the time/temperature ratio, this • Often associated with the absence 4 5 process does not alter the properties of of preservatives, Airless packaging, the formula, including those with a high which prevents air intake into the (respectant les conditions aseptiques proportion of aqueous phase, nor the packaging, does not on the other hand Iso 5). Celui-ci permet de s’affranchir de effectiveness of heat-sensitive actives, and avoids the phase shift of the formula. The prevent bacterial back-contamination conservateurs et ne pas contaminer l’air service provider offers its UHT sterilisation nor micro-contamination. To avoid this stérile contenu dans le fameux « volume device in a miniature format (Photo 1 ) for microbiological disturbance caused by the mort » et d’éviter des manipulations R&D applications (CLT0.05 model (50ml/m) presence of a “dead volume” in the head sous vide susceptibles de déformer les for the screening of formulations from 200 of the dispenser during filling, the Airless packagings. Fruit de cette innovation, la to 500ml in research laboratories). system requires the use of preservatives. marque Dermatherm – première marque With an increasingly diversified packaging française dermocosmétique certifiée • To meet the needs of allergic, intolerant offer and a UHT sterilisation process, this bio et sans conservateurs – dévoile trois and hypersensitive skin and for greater time indirect – suitable for all galenics, gammes pour peaux normales à sèches, safety, Eau Thermale Avène (Pierre Fabre even foamy –, Laboratoires Gravier has sensibles et mixtes à grasses (Photo 5). La Group) favours sterile cosmetics based chosen Airless conditioning in a clean pompe des flacons possède une fermeture on the direct UHT sterilisation process. room (respecting ISO 5 aseptic conditions). extrême automatique antimicrobienne This process is applied throughout the This allows doing away with preservatives garantissant une PAO de six mois. manufacturing chain by injecting clean and not contaminating the sterile air steam into an infusion chamber (less contained in the famous “dead volume” The preserving stage does not necessarily than 10 seconds of exposure) (Photo 2). and avoiding handling operations under require the use of specific ingredients. Combined with hermetically sealed vacuum conditions that could deform the Whether direct or indirect, UHT (Ultra packaging (Photo 3), the sterile quality of High Temperature) sterilisation allows the formula is maintained – vacuum flash packaging. Stemming from this innovation, eliminating preservatives from formulas during the instant cooling – and prevents the Dermatherm brand – the first French while guaranteeing the absence of external contamination during use thanks dermo-cosmetic brand certified organic bacteriological activity in products. Both to an aseptic pump delivery system. No and without preservatives – unveils three types of sterilisation act either directly by need to press or roll the bottom of the tube, ranges for normal to dry, sensitive and heating the formula – the direct method – a simple pressure on the pump is enough combination to oily skin (Photo 5). The or through pipes through which the formula to release the product. Benefiting from this pump of the bottles is fitted with an passes – the indirect method. CL Tech packaging technology inspired by sterile automatic anti-microbial extreme closure supports brands in their transition to injectable medicines, the Tolérance Control guaranteeing a PAO of six months. ■ The global information on cosmetics & fragrances July / August 2021- N°70