Special report / Dossier INGREDIENTS 143 nouvelles raisons du soin son homéostasie. L’anti-âge n’est En cosmétique, l’idée est intéres- la peau comme une architecture plus tant une question de rides que sante précisément parce qu’elle autonome. Désormais, les narra- de résilience. Sur le fond, toute permet de considérer la peau tions réinscrivent la peau dans le la question est de savoir si cette comme un tout et de ne plus se continuum de l’être tout entier, tendance holistique résulte in fine limiter à une relation monovalente microbiome inclus, voire de son en une simple accumulation de entre un actif et une cible. En outre,histoire en faisant référence à preuves de concepts relativement elle invite même à ne plus penser l’exposome. La peau devient un classiques ou pourrait conduire à nouvelle lecture des voies biologiques. Bienvenue dans l’ère du soin holistique Le terme holistique dérive de l’anglais holism, forgé en 1926 par un biologiste sud-africain, J.C. Smuts, sur le grec, ο ʹ λ ος « entier ». Il s’agit d’une approche qui consiste à consi- dérer les phénomènes dans leur totalité. Elle s’oppose dans une certaine mesure aux conceptions analytiques. targets for skincare treatments the quality of its homeostasis. Anti-consider the skin as a whole, and their variations with caution. For ageing is no longer so much about no longer limit ourselves to a one-to-example, certain pathways can be wrinkles as it is about resilience. one relationship between an active inhibited and thus cause undesi- Basically, the question is whether and a target. Moreover, it even rable effects. We will get back to this holistic trend is the result of ainvites us to stop thinking of the this. Hebelys, Greentech’s latest® mere accumulation of evidence of skin as an autonomous architecture. product, acts on the key markers relatively traditional concepts or ifHenceforth, marketing narratives of senescence and the maintenance it could lead to a new interpretationreposition the skin in the continuumof the skin’s biomechanical proper- of biological pathways. of the whole being, including the ties. But it also acts on self-esteem microbiome, and even its history and on improving the overall state Welcome to the era by referring to the exposome. The of mind. In doing so, it is part of a of holistic care skin becomes a dynamic system genuine trend. in constant interaction with the The term holistic derives from the exterior, but also the interior world.• Integrate the English word, holism, (from the When addressing the issue of psychological dimension Greek, ο ʹ λ ο ς “whole”), coined stress, a number of elements must Givaudan Neurophronline™ links in 1926 by the South African biolo- therefore be integrated into a trulypsychological stress and skin gist, J.C. Smuts. This approach systemic approach involving both stress.Here, stress is defined as consists of considering phenomena the psychological and physiologi- an external factor that disrupts in their entirety. It is to some extentcal dimensions. For Édith Filaire, a homeostasis.In a stressful situa- opposed to analytical conceptions. Scientific Consultant at Greentech, tion, our body reacts by releasing It is an interesting concept in cosme-this means taking into account hormones, such as adrenaline and tics precisely because it allows us toseveral markers and interpreting cortisol, which will induce defence The global information on cosmetics & fragrances July / August 2021- N°70