022 MARCHÉEnquête / Feature AU-DELÀ DU CONFORT, LES MARQUES MISENT SUR LA SENSORIALITÉ, ILLUSTRÉE PAR DES TEXTURES À TRANSFORMATION INÉDITES AU FINI DOUBLE PEAU, POUDRÉ, FRAIS, … EN PARALLÈLE, LES ACTIFS SOINS DEVIENNENT LA RÉGLE, ESTOMPANT PLUS QUE JAMAIS LA FRONTIÈRE ENTRE ROUGES A LÉVRES ET BAUMES. BRANDS ARE NOW LOOKING BEYOND COMFORT TO FOCUS ON SENSORY PROPERTIES, AS DEMONSTRATED BY THE EMERGENCE OF BRAND-NEW TRANSFORMATION TEXTURES WITH A POWDERY, FRESH, SECOND-SKIN FINISH, WHILST AT THE SAME TIME, SKINCARE ACTIVE INGREDIENTS ARE BECOMING THE NORM, BLURRING THE BOUNDARIES BETWEEN LIPSTICKS AND BALMS MORE THAN EVER BEFORE. En chiffres le Liptransformer de la même gamme, Variété et sensorialité des textures», souligne SophieGuetta, In fi gures appliqué seul ou sur le rouge à lèvres, textures directrice générale France de ByTerry. apporte une dimension holographique, La marque a, par exemple, lancé en Pharmacie et grâce à ses perles prismatiques opales- Àl’opposé des couleurs matière, Clarins édition limitée, Lip Powder Essence, parapharmacie centes. Même YSL a voulu répondre à a innové avec l’Eau à Lèvres, qui, en une poudre à lèvres qui se transforme Pharmacies and la tendance incontournable de la saison, dehors de ses autres promesses (Cf. au contact des lèvres en une encre au health & beauty en revisitant la formule de Tatouage p.19), revendique un effet zéro matière, lm n. «Son fi ni mat, poudré comme stores (France) Couture, avec TheMetallics, dont la au ni façon «tatouage». Clin d’œil: sa si l’on avait appliqué du blush, très texture liquide couvrante dépose sur formule non-transfert et longue tenue longue tenue, donne un maquillage 3,4 les lèvres une pellicule chromée aux «résiste à 300baisers». «L’heure un peu moins intense que les formules M€: chiffre d’affaires notes métallisées. est vraiment à la diversification des ides», explique SophieGuetta. Une du maquillage des liqu lèvres en pharmacie (-17,8%) pour 269milliers d’unités vendues (-17,9%). lip make-up turnover in pharmacies (-17.8%), accounting for 269,000 and creates a less intense make-up effect stick, the VisionAiry Gel lipstick boasts a Keeping the lips moisturised also units sold (-17.9%). than liquid formulas do,” Sophie Guetta Triple Gel technology based on a combi- improves the finish ofa ae-unymkp 1,4 says of this transformation texture that nation of agar-agar, clay and copolymer applied. “It makes the surface of M€: chiffre d’affaires illustrates the trend forsensory properties gels that makes it possible to combine the lips smoother, thus making them du maquillage des lèvres en in lip make-up products. “These powders a high concentration of pigments with a appear fuller,” Sophie Guetta explains. parapharmacie that transform into liquids fi rst emerged melting texture incorporating 15% water Lancôme’s L’Absolu Rouge Drama (+6,3%) pour in Asia and are starting to become more for a feeling of freshness combined with Mat is enriched with emollient agents 142milliers d’unités vendues (+6,9%). widespread in the American market, intense lasting hydration. and nourishing oils (notably including lip make-up turnover in including where Clinique and Buxom, jojoba oil), whilst Dolce & Gabbana’s health & beauty stores for example, are concerned,” explains Omnipresent skincare Dolcissimo Matte Liquid Lipcolour also (+6.3%), accounting for 142,000 units sold Leila Rochet-Podvin. This is also the ingredients contains a high concentration of oil. (+6.9%). case in France, with the latest addition The Maxi-Lip complex used in the™ 12,81€ to Chanel’s Rouge Allure line, Liquid Of course, lip products are now also Demi Matte Huda Beauty collection, prix public moyen en Powder, representing a new generation expected to take comfoandrt care meanwhile, helps stimulate collagen pharmacie. of matt lipsticks with an invisible second- into account. “A matt lipstick can soon production whilst also hydrating the lips. average retail price. skin fi nish. The brand is also focusing on become uncomfortable,hence the Hyaluronic acid has become increasingly Source: IQVIA – Cumul practicality and portability with a foam increasing presence of various nourish- widely used over the years to maintain annuel mobile à août 2018. applicator built into a squeezable tube. ing active ingredients in lip formulas,” hydration levels and smooth the lips and IQVIA – Moving annual total at August 2018. The growing emphasis on textures is Pauline Schwitzer points out. “Women is used in formulas such as Sisley’s Phyto also refl ected in Shiseido’s new make-up want hydration, nutrition and protection Rouge, where it is combined with konjac line, which includes the ModernMatte to care for the delicate lip area, partic- glucomannans and a Hydrobooster Powder lipstick, featuring an angular ularly as the lips don’t have the protec- Complex, Guerlain’s KissKiss line, design and a melting, comfortable tive hydrolipidic fi lm that the rest of the combining hyaluronic acid spheres with formula similar to a balm that transforms facial skin has and are often exposed to commiphora oil, By Terry’s Hyaluronic into an ultra-fi ne powder to envelop the day-to-day irritants and damaged by our Sheer Rouge lipstick balm, the Hydra lips in a layer of creamy, opaque colour own behaviours (biting, pinching, etc.),” Care Lipstick Artdeco range and many with a matt fi nish. Also in the form of a Marie-Hélène Lair confi rms. more. ■ N°54 - Novembre / Décembre 2018 Expression Cosmétique