018 MARCHÉ Enquête / Feature En chiffres In fi gures AUX COTÉS DU ROUGE «PARISIEN», LES GMS TEINTES LIE-DE-VIN, BORDEAUX OU PRUNE Supermarket S’IMPOSENT POUR LA SAISON AUTOMNE- distribution HIVER. ET SI LA TENDANCE AU MAT RESTE channel DOMINANTE, LES ROUGES À LÈVRES (France) SATINÉS FONT LEUR RETOUR. ALONG WITH “PARISIAN“ RED, SHADES 54,4 OF BURGUNDY, CLARET AND PLUM ARE THE HOT FAVOURITES FOR THE AUTUMN- M€: marché du WINTER SEASON, AND WHILST THE maquillage des lèvres DOMINANT TREND IS STILL FOR MATT hors soins en GMS FINISHES, SATIN-EFFECT LIPSTICKS ARE (-0,5%), dont 50,7M€ ALSO MAKING A COMEBACK. (+0,8%) pour les rouges à lèvres, 2M€ (-29,7%) pour les gloss, 1,7M€ (+8,6%) pour les crayons à de renouveler leurs stocks de rouges à l’étranger, le déploiement de la person- en encore le RougeG de Guerlain. «Les lèvres. à lèvres. « Mais surtout, aujourd’hui, lenalisation du rouge à lèvres: aux États- packagings innovent en termes de €m: non-skincare lip make-up market, focus est plus axé sur le teint, avec la Unis, avec les espaces Bite Beauty Lip design pour se singulariser et adoptent supermarket tendance inclusive». Lab, permettant de choisir la teinte, le une dimension plus couture. Car un distribution (-0.5%), ni, le parfum, … de son rouge à lèvres rouge à lèvres reste un objet qui doit including €50.7m Personnalisation et travail (+0.8%) for lipsticks, au gré de ses envies, ou en Corée, avec êtrebeau lorsqu’on le sort de son sacà €2m (-29.7%) for du packaging la possibilité offerte par la ColorFactory main», ajoute Marie-HélèneLair, direc- glosses and €1.7m d’obtenir un rouge à lèvres sur mesure, trice de la communication scienti que (+8.6%) for lip pencils. «Un mouvement qui pourrait arriver à l’issue d’une véritable consultation Clarins. «Les efforts portent aussi sur la 6248 sur les rouges à lèvres, en réponse visant à déterminer la teinte la plus praticité avec des packagings de plus milliers d’unités à la multiethnicité croissate e nosnd atteuse. en plus nomades ou avec des miroirs vendues (-4,1%). million units sold sociétés», prévoit LeilaRochet-Podvin, En Europe, la personnalisation de intégrés». Signé ByTerry, le Rouge (-4.1%). fondatrice de Cosmetics Inspiration & l’habillage est d’ores et déjà une réalité,Expert Click Stick est un rouge à lèvre 8,39 € Creation. En évoquant pour le moment, comme pour le Rouge PurCouture YSL, hydride à l’embout «goutte d’eau» doté prix moyen hors promotion. average non- promotional price. by liquid formulas that benefi t from both channel in 2018, that is 20 more than designed to identify the most fl attering an innovative offering and the roll-out ofthe previous year, but the turnover shade. existing product lines across stores, has generated by new products was down Customising the packaging design been marred by the continued decline 29%. It could be that, given the large is something that is already practised of the lip gloss segment.” numbers of purchases made last year, in Europe, as demonstrated by YSL’s The situation in the selective distributionconsumers don’t yet necessarily needto Rouge PurCouture and even Gulieran’s channel, meanwhile, is quite different. replenish their lipstick supplies, “but the Rouge G. “Packaging solutions are “The lip market is really what has driven focus now is more on the complexion, becoming more innovative in terms the make-up sector over the past two with the inclusive trend.” of design in their attempts to stand years,” NPD Beauty Europe Industry out from the crowd and offer a more Expert Mathilde Lion points out, but we Packaging customisation designer feel. After all, a lipstick has to are seeing a reversal of this trend. Up and design look good when you pull it out of your 12% last year in terms of value, the lip handbag,” adds Marie-Hélène Lair, make-up segment is now on course for “This is one movement that we could see Head of Scientifi c Communications at growth of -9% – a development linked starting to affect lipsticks, in response to Clarins. “Efforts are also being made to certain segments that have previously the growing multi-ethnicity of our societ- in terms of practicality, with packaging been growing, with lipsticks losing ies,” Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation solutions becoming increasiglyporta-n 10% in value over the course of a year founder Leila Rochet-Podvin predicts, ble or incorporating built-in mirrors.” (even though liquid lipsticks continue to citing for the time being the rolling out By Terry’s Rouge Expert Click Stikis ac achieve signifi cant levels of grow)th, andof lipstick customisation services in other hybrid lipstick with a teardro-shapedtipp glosses down 14%. “This backlash is countries, including the United States, anda mechanism that reasesjust theel being felt in all European countries. with the Bite Beauty Lip Labs, where the right amount of colour n a sge lki inl cic, There was a lot of emphasis placed on consumer can select the shade, fi nish, whilst Laura Mercier’sV melourExtree lip products, with major launches and fragrance, etc. of their lipstick to refl ect Matte Lipstick comes wthia fi ne tiksc relaunches by major brands and lots their own tastes, and Korea, where anda built-in mechansm or datingi f ap of communication and hype,” explains the Color Factory gives consumers theshape of its tip. Mathilde Lion. Sixty-three products were the opportunity to purchase a tailored Artdeco’s Head of Marketing and launched in the selective distribution lipstick following an actual consultation Communications PaulineSwtechizr, N°54 - Novembre / Décembre 2018 Expression Cosmétique