STYLE CRÉATRICE London calling HERMÈS CELEBRATES MASCULINE CHIC IN A CITY WITH A LONG AND MULTIFACETED SARTORIAL TRADITION. vestiaire masculin depuis une petite dizaine “London is an exuberant city, as well. For the past 25 years d’années. Les matières techniques ? Elle les so near and yet so singular. Its they have been buying my a toujours mixées à celles plus luxueuses et people understand color and men’s overcoats and outsized conservatrices. L’alternative au gris/bleu, au fantasy, and its multicultural- sweaters.” Gender fl uidity? noir ? Elle a toujours manié la couleur avec ism is inspiring.” On March 21, “When I started out, some une fl amboyance aiguisée. Les nuances sub- Hermès menswear designer materials and colors were tiles d’un jaune acide, d’un rose contenu, Véronique Nichanian replayed quasi-taboo for men. But for d’un orange explosif témoignent de sa préci- her spring-summer 2019 run- one of my fi rst collections sion implacable. “La mode masculine est un way show in the British capital. I created a red cashmere coat.” exercice rigoureux”, rappelle-t-elle. Dans A city that thrives on tradition Technical materials? She mixes cette ère de l’image, elle est dans la réalité and eccentricity, that both them with more luxurious, du vêtement porté, mais c’est elle qui sait le defi nes and defies the canons conservative fabrics. Alterna- mieux à quel point le classique ne peut rester of elegance… It was an apt tives to black-blue-gray? She fi gé. Redéfi nir les proportions, les coupes, choice for a label that knows has always made extensive, les associations de matières, travailler deux the value of wit and derision, as fl amboyant use of color. She temporalités : l’air du temps et le temps evidenced by the contribution never loses sight of the fact long, ralenti. Celui qui nie les compromis. of the Dutch cartoonist Joost that “men’s fashion is an Comme elle le dit si bien : “De la modernité Swarte to the event. exacting exercise,” but knows réussie naît l’intemporel de demain.” Nichanian is at the forefront that the classics cannot remain of all the essential trends that unchanged year after year. are rapidly altering the face As she puts it, “Successful Défi lé printemps-été of men’s fashion. Androgyny? modernity is what spawns the 2019, HERMÈS. “I have always dressed women timelessness of tomorrow.” AIR FRANCE MADAME / 129