“In & Out” beauty Nutricosmetics is a (relatively) young concept that emerged in the late 1980s. Because consumers allover the world are looking for a synergy between the topical application of a cosmetic and the consumption of a food supplement. This holistic «In & Out» approach corresponds to a reinvention of the beauty routine - or a better understanding of the biochemical mechanisms involved in the physiology of the skin. n other words: while cosmetics specific: how can probiotics act «from the focus on the superficial layers inside» on the skin? What do we know of the dermis, nutrition via sup-about their effects in topical applications? plementation takes care of the Then the applied science. deeper layers. In & Out beauty is the bridgeDr. Paul Dupont, endocrinologist and between these two approaches. A bridge dermatologist, draws on his expertise that is relatively easy to understand for as a practitioner to decipher the consumers, who are in fact increasingly de-influences of nutritionalapproaches on manding nutricosmetic products. numerous skin manifestations (psoriasis, As a result, the market has grown strongly atopic dermatitis).And to show how and wil l continue to do so. In 2020, the glo-supplementation can help relieve them. bal nutricosmetics market was estimated Isscience enough to guarantee the to be worth 7 bil lion euros. 9 bil lion withinsuccess of nutricosmetic supplements? five years (WiseGuyReports). Nothing is less certainin view of the successes but also the failures in this A MARKET UNDER INFLUENCE field, which wil lbe analysed by the 8.8 crossed views of Emmanuelle Gaillard With a market share of 42%, it is undoubte-(Nutricosme) and Ophélie Ouazzany (OO dly the Asia-Pacific region that dominates Conseil), who bring their expertise of the The nutricosmetics (Marketresearchfuture. markets, regulations and assets. nutricosmetics com) - and in particular Japan (many «In market is & Out» concepts have been created there - This decoding is al l the more relevant as expected to reach see Shiseido’s shots) and China. 8.8 billion euros in the nutricosmetics market is truly global 2026 Europe is not to be outdone. Although and many influences are emerging in Source Global its market share is «only» 30%, it has the Asia and across the Atlantic. This is what nutricosmetic highest growth rate (more than 8.5%/year Emmanuelle Dumas (M.A Wel lness Market, between 2020 and 2025). & Beauty) analyses by crossing global WiseGuyReports cultural influences and consumer 2019 BETWEEN SCIENCE AND lifestyles. CONSCIENCE REAL OPPORTUNITIES? To approach this ‘In & Out’ concept, let’s turn to science. In these scientific, regulatory and consu- First of al l, the fundamentalscience. Dr.mer trend contexts, one question stands Lionel Breton, ex-scientific director of theout: is it possible to enter this nutricosme- L’Oréalgroup (world leader in perfumes tics market? and how? The young Cultiv and cosmetics) until 2021, and now founder brand (partof the InVivo cooperative of Cilia Consulting, wil l bring his expertisegroup) intends to take up the chal lenge. in neuro-immunology and microbiology of Laure-Anne de Tastes explains the levers the skin and intestine. A dive into the heartused - particularly with retailers - to im- of the role of probiotics on skin health frompose the brand that she co-created and the angle of what makes nutricosmetics manages. • secnerefnoC — secneréfnoC - 61 -