bronce del maestro Fernando Botero, así como el Jardín Botánico Joaquín Antonio Uribe. Son símbolos de un lugar con un nuevo relato que, por supuesto, también se come. ENG Few people know it better than he does. When asked about Medellín, writer Ricardo Aricapa Ardi- la, one of the city’s most prominent chroniclers, starts with the basics: it lies in a narrow valley between mountains, has four million inhabitants, was once an industrial hub, inaugurated its metro system in the mid-1990s, and along the way became the world capi- tal of reggaeton while gradually leaving behind a past marked by violence. This is Medellín in the 21st centu- ry, but today it is more than its history: the city is its peo- ple, who are looking for new ways to tell their story. ‘This is a city of entrepreneurial people, with prov- en abilities, talent, and a constant drive to stand out. The city has managed to overcome, not with- out pain and effort, a difficult past. It’s also defined by the profound urban transformation it has under- gone, which today makes it as an innovative and mod- ern city, an attractive destination,’ says Aricapa. The new narrative with which the city seeks to present itself to the world has found in gastronomy one of its most important forms of expression. Leonor Espinosa knows this well —chef, writer, entrepreneur, and Colombian TV presenter, who in 2022 was named The World’s Best Female Chef by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, published by the British magazine Restaurant. Her culinary vision, deeply rooted in Colombian biodiversity, celebrates its 20th anni- versary in 2025. “Medellín’s gastronomy preserves the rural spirit inherited from traditional Antioquian cuisine, but today it has evolved into a space of fusion and renewal. Tra- ditional flavours coexist with an expanding culinary scene, marked by the opening of markets such as the Ayacucho Tranvía Market or the Plaza Minorista, which serve as showcases of cultural diversity and meeting points for both traditional and contemporary chefs,” explains Espinosa. From street food to haute cuisine As the city has established itself as a gastronomic des- tination, Paisa cuisine has been reinterpreted through modern techniques and local ingredients. ‘Street food concepts and world cuisines are flourishing, reflect- ing the vitality of the city. Medellín today is a cross- roads between the flavours that tell the story of its mountains and a creative laboratory,’ says Espinosa. But can a region’s food really speak to the nature of its people? Espinosa is convinced it can: ‘A city’s cuisine is usually a reflection of its people. In Medellin’s case, it speaks of the Paisa character, hard-working and proud of its roots.’ The tradition of serving generous portions, she explains, shows a community spirit and a way of under- standing life that only makes sense when it’s shared. She gives a clear example: the city’s fondas and roadside eat- eries, menus are filled with stews, sudados and casseroles. But these traditional recipes, which for many reveal the character of an entire people, are now seeking new paths. They are doing so in places such as X.O. (Cra. 36 #10a-45, El Poblado), a restaurant in Medellín that was born during the pandemic under the concept of clan- destine dinners: exclusive services for a maximum of ten diners on a third floor with only three tables. In 2021, a relocation allowed them to welcome more than twen- ty guests, and today they have an experimental laborato- ry and are part of the Carmen group. “The gastronomy of my city is growing almost at the same pace as the urban transformation and expansion we’re experiencing. Fifteen years ago, there were only a couple of haute cuisine res- taurants, but today we are a generation of innovative and creative cooks,” says Mateo Ríos, the restaurant’s chef. In his view, the city’s culinary scene will continue to grow, increasingly driven by more bars and restaurants. ‘We have become one of the most touristy cities in the country. As a chef and citizen, I am proud of the positive develop- ments in Medellín in recent years, although I am uncer- tain about what may happen to our roots,’ reflects Ríos. “Chinchulines” and empanaditas With one eye on tradition and the other on the future, they also work within the Carmen group, of which Ríos is a part through X.O. But the restaurant conglomerate also goes much further. Since opening 16 years ago in Medellín, they now have Sushi Bar Moshi, specialising in Japanese food, and Don Diablo, a steakhouse that works with local prod- ucts, in the same city. Behind these ventures is Carmen Angel herself, born in Chicago and raised in California, yet deeply knowledgeable about Paisa cuisine. ‘We trav- el around the region, and we love connecting with arti- sans, fishermen, small producers and farmers, and local cooks. With that foundation, we seek inspiration to show- case identity through cuisine,’ explains the co-founder. Angel’s first piece of advice to anyone visiting the city is ‘those who seek shall find. Although, unfortunately, the street food culture has been overrun by hot dogs and ham- burgers, if you search hard enough, you’ll find chinchulines, empanaditas and all those dishes made with papita criolla.’ And for those who really know Medellín, what do they see? What places do they recommend in this city that is at once old and new? Aricapa is clear about this: first, the El Poblado area in the south, now the coolest and most elegant neighbourhood in the city; Plaza de Botero, fea- turing 23 monumental bronze sculptures by the master Fernando Botero; and the Joaquín Antonio Uribe Botan- ical Garden. These are symbols of a city with a new story to tell—a story that, of course, is also meant to be tasted. medellín © Tato Gomez Plato Cerdos dos veces del restaurante Carmen Medellín. // A dish called Cerdos dos veces (Twice-Cooked Pork ) from the Carmen Medellín restaurant.