International view Sarah Jane Evans President of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino “The affection for Spain needs to be converted into brand value” Sarah Jane Evans began her relationship with wine more Does Spanish wine need better marketing? than thirty years ago, embarking on a journey that has Yes, probably. But in reality, it is not just wine, it is the led her to become one of the most prominent figures whole of Spain that needs to tell its story better. The in the sector. Master of Wine, journalist, writer and perception abroad is very positive: Spain is pleasure, communicator, she has chaired the Institute of Masters of light, charm. But that affection needs to be converted Wine and is co-chair of the Decanter World Wine Awards. into brand value. France and Italy have historically Although she was born and lives in London, she spends been more adept at doing this. There are extraordinary much of her time travelling in search of aromas, flavours wines here, but it’s still difficult to see that pride that and stories about wine around the world. Her passion for comes almost naturally in Italy. Although everything Spain and sherry has earned her such distinctions as the is changing, and I’m optimistic. Spanish wines have Official Cross of the Order of Isabella the Catholic, Dame a bright present and an even brighter future. of Albariño and Dame of Solear, as well as the presidency of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino (Grand Order Would you say that the Spanish wine brand of the Knights of Wine). With a degree in Classics and is underrated in terms of its actual quality? Social and Political Sciences from Cambridge, Evans It is a somewhat unusual case. Spanish wines are the has been deputy editor of the BBC Good Food magazine, kings of value for money, but a country cannot live on that founder of the Academy of Chocolate and author of alone. It needs icons. Twenty years ago, there were barely books includingThe Wines of Northern Spain and Chocolate half a dozen top brands known outside the country. Today Unwrapped. A keen observer and skilled storyteller, she there are many more, but we still do not see Spanish argues that wine (like culture) becomes more enjoyable wines at major auctions or as investment opportunities. the more you know about it. International prestige also requires expensive labels and wines with cult status. And Spain has them, but they need As one of the world’s leading international experts to believe in themselves more. in the field of wine, would you say that Spanish viticulture is innovative or overly traditional? And conversely? Are there any overrated It is both, and that is what makes it interesting. There is international denominations? a return to origins, to ancestral practices that are now In my opinion, there are Designations of Origin that being reinterpreted with a more contemporary approach. have been very successful in marketing themselves Vinos de pasto, for example, which are unfortified, are abroad. Sometimes I tell the producers in La Rioja that booming and have a very bright future. The key lies in their wines are too cheap. There are some excellent connecting with the land and the wine’s origins. There is wines that could easily compete with great French creativity, authenticity and a new generation closely tied or Italian wines, but which sell for less than £100 a to their land. This fascinates international consumers. bottle. Some even go for fifteen pounds. Rioja is Spain’s 36