3 BELLEVILLE Cosmopolitan and trendy, this area is pop- ular for its multicultural mix (the result of several waves of immigration), lively bars, artists’ studios, and a park. Situated at the top of the Colline de Belleville (hill), the park offers stunning panoramic views of the French capital. A vineyard, planted with 140 vines, is a surprising feature. 20th. M Belleville.o PARC DE LA VILLETTE Extending over 55 hectares, with 33 green spaces, this is the largest park in the capi- plus… tal! For a century, however, ‘La Villette’ had a completely different vocation: in 1858, Pre- fect Haussmann decided to group together BUTTE BERGEYRE the cattle markets and slaughterhouses of A mini-neighbourhood rising to heights of Paris here. Several buildings from that time 100 metres. Visitors will be charmed by the are stillvisible today, including the Grande small cobblestoned streets, lined with pretty Halle (Great Hall), which housed the ox mar- houses, and picturesque views. ket, and the Fountain of the Nubian Lions, 19th. M Colonel Fabien.o which served as a drinking trough. In 1974, the activity moved to Rungis. The site was LE PLATEAU – then completely redesigned: the construc- CENTRE D’ART CONTEMPORAIN tion of the Cité des Sciences et de l’Indus- Temporary exhibitions and artists-in- trie was entrusted to the architect Adrian residence are part of the programme of this Fainsilber, and Bernard Tschumi was respon- venue devoted to contemporary creation. sible for the design of the park. He criss- 22 rue des Alouettes (19th). crossed it with 26 ‘follies’, small red surpris- M Buttes-Chaumont.o 01 76 21 13 41. ingly shaped pavilions; divided it into grassy www.fraciledefrance.com areas for festive events and festivals (Out- door cinema, etc.); and traced a 3-km ‘cin- QUARTIER JOURDAIN ematic promenade’ that leads the walker Its other name: the Heights of Belleville. from playgrounds to landscaped gardens, Wander along the little streets, climb the from cultural sites (Cité de la Musique) to stone steps, take a break at one of the theatres (Zénith, Philharmonie de Paris, Tra- charming little squares and enjoy the won- bendo, Cabaret Sauvage, etc.). The Grande derful views of Paris. Halle, a listed historic monument, offers a 19th. M Jourdain.o year-round programme of shows, concerts and exhibitions. For a bucolic interlude, QUARTIER DE LA MOUZAÏA boats not requiring a licence can be hired The countryside in Paris! La Mouzaïa is an to navigate along the Canal de l’Ourcq and unusual spot that is well worth a visit, with its admire one of the park’s iconic monuments: small pedestrianized streets called ‘villas’, the Géode, an architectural and artistic feat its brick houses and little courtyards. in the shape of a dazzling sphere. 19th. M Botzaris.o 211 av. Jean Jaurès (19th). M Porte deo Pantin. 01 40 03 75 75. https://lavillette.com NORTH-EAST PARIS | 63