29 rue Pasquier (8th). M Saint-Lazare.o 01 42 65 35 80. Wed to Sat: 10am-12.30pm and 1.30pm-5pm (Apr to Sept: until 6.30pm). Closed Sun, Mon, Tues, 1 Jan, 1 May and 25 Dec. Full rate: €6. www.chapelle-expiatoire-paris.fr BASILIQUE plus… CATHÉDRALE MUR DES ‘JE T’AIME’ DE SAINT-DENIS In a charming little square on the Place des Abbesses, a 40 m wall2 is decorated with more than 300 ‘I love yous’ in 250 different The history of the place can be traced back languages. to the 5th century, when a first basilica was Square Jehan-Rictus (18th). M Abbesses.o built on the burial place of Saint Denis, a martyr for his faith, very popular, and con- MOULIN ROUGE sidered the first bishop of Paris. The power Feathers, rhinestones and sequins! Since and prestige of the basilica were undisput- 1889, evenings at this famous cabaret have able from the sixth century, when the kings been enlivened by the rhythm of the French and queens of France chose to be buried Cancan and fabulous Music Hall revues. there. From the Capetian dynasty onwards, 82 bd de Clichy (18th). M Blanche.o allFrench rulers were buried there until 01 53 09 82 82. www.moulinrouge.com the death of Louis XVIII (in 1824). From its ties with the monarchy, the royal necrop- CIMETIÈRE DE MONTMARTRE olisretains an exceptional ensemble of Émile Zola, Stendhal, Gustave Moreau and 70 recumbent statues and sculpted tombs, Dalida are all buried here. The leafy ceme- including those of Clovis, François I and tery is a pleasant place to stroll and contains Catherine de Medici, illustrating the changes aninteresting selection of funerary statues. in funerary art over the centuries. Other 20 av. Rachel (18th). M Place de Clichy.o highlights of a visit are the family vault of www.paris.fr the Bourbons, the chevet of Abbé Suger and the funerary statues of Louis XVI and Marie- LE BAL Antoinette. The current aspect of the Bas- A dance hall during the roaring twenties, Le ilique de Saint-Denis dates from the 13th BAL programmes exhibitions, cinema, per- century. The stained-glass windows, the rose formance … centred on the contemporary window over the central portal and ribbed image in all its forms. It also has a bookshop vaulting — revolutionary techniques at the and a restaurant. time — make it a prime example of the first 6 imp. de la Défense (18th). M Placeo Gothic art. de Clichy. 01 44 70 75 50. www.le-bal.fr 1 rue de la Légion d’honneur. 93200 Saint-Denis. M Basilique de Saint-Denis.o AVENUE JUNOT AND VILLA LÉANDRE 01 48 09 83 54. Daily, except 1 Jan, 1 May, While wandering along the elegant Avenue 25 Dec and during some religious services. Junot, one comes across the Villa Léandre, a 1 Oct 2020 to 31 March 2021: 10am-5.15pm. cul-de-sac lined with charming Old English- Sun from 12 noon. Full rate: €9.50. style houses. www.saint-denis-basilique.fr 18th. M Lamarck – Caulaincourt.o 58| IN AND AROUND MONTMARTRE