decor. The first floor hosts temporary exhibi- tions. A poignant detail in the Chinese room is the entwined initials of the great man and his mistress Juliette Drouet. For a delicious break, drop into the Maison Mulot tea room. Hôtel de Rohan-Guéménée. 6 place des Vosges (4th). M Bastille.o 01 42 72 10 16. The House is closed for work. Reopening scheduled for Nov 2020. Daily: 10am-6pm, except Mon and some public holidays. Permanent collections free. Charge for temporary exhibitions. PLACE www.maisonsvictorhugo.paris.fr DES VOSGES 26MUSÉE CARNAVALET – HISTOIRE DE PARIS The veritable jewel of the Marais district, an The museum’s rich collections – more than area not lacking in attractions! The Place des 615,000 works – trace the history of the Vosges is one of the oldest squares in Paris capital, from its origins to the present day. and also one of the most beautiful. Visitors Paintings, sculptures, furniture, objets d’art can stroll under its arcades or along the and artefacts from archaeological excava- pathways of its central garden and admire tions are on show in the exceptional histor- the superb red brick facades of the town ical setting of two hôtel particuliers in the houses that surround it. Shops, open on Sun- heart of the Marais. The magnificent garden, days, contribute to the lively atmosphere. the orangery and a section devoted to the The square is also the ideal starting point for French Revolution are highlights of the visit. a stroll in the Marais, one of the capital’s most 23 rue de Sévigné (3rd). M Saint-Paul.o charming historic quarters for its rich herit- 01 44 59 58 58. The museum is closed for age and atmosphere. Many private mansions renovation work. Reopening scheduled for 2021. from the 17th and 18th centuries have been www.carnavalet.paris.fr transformed into internationally-famous museums: Musée National Picasso – Paris, Victor Hugo’s house … The Rue des Rosiers, the epicentre of Paris’s Jewish community, is also worth visiting for its atmosphere, bou- tiques and restaurants. Countless bars and clubs have made the Marais the biggest gay district in France. 4th. M Bastille.o 27MUSÉE COGNACQ-JAY – LE GOÛT DU XVIIIE around Husband and wife Cognacq-Jay, founders PLACE DES VOSGES of La Samaritaine department store and keen art lovers, bequeathed their collec- tions to the City of Paris in 1928. Visitors 25MAISON DE VICTOR HUGO can discover an exceptional ensemble of From 1832 to 1848, the author of The Hunch- works from the 18th century in a stunning back of Notre-Dame lived at the Hôtel de 16th-century mansion. Paintings by Boucher Rohan-Guéménée. The visit of the apart- and Fragonard may be admired alongside ment traces the main stages of Hugo’s life drawings by Watteau, sculptures, furniture (before, during and after his exile in Guern- and precious objects (jewellery, snuff boxes sey). On show are pieces of his furniture, and Dresden china). various mementoes, and amazing interior HISTORIC HEART | 29