around EIFFEL TOWER 1 HÔTEL NATIONAL DES INVALIDES From the esplanade, admire the magnifi- cent facade and gilded dome of the Hôtel National des Invalides, a unique feature on the Parisian cityscape, which Louis XIV decided to have built in 1670. Begin your visit in the main courtyard, with its open- EIFFEL air collection of hundred-year-old artillery. From there, make your way to the Musée TOWER de l’Armée which houses treasures from military art and history from the 13th cen- tury to the international conflicts of the 20th century. Then there are the Musée Standing 324 metres tall, the Eiffel Tower des Plans-Reliefs, with superb models, the is not only the symbol of a capital but of Musée de l’Ordre de la Libération, devoted an entire country. Inaugurated in 1889 for to Free France, and the Historial Charles de the Universal Exposition, it continues to Gaulle, devoted to the French president who attract visitors from all over the world. The was the founder of France’s Fifth Republic. monument has also transformed itself Beyond the main courtyard is the Cathedral over the decades. It now boasts a fully- Saint-Louis-des-Invalides, divided into two refurbished 1st floor with a vertiginous glass parts. Firstly, the Soldiers’ Church, the offi- platform. At the base of the Eiffel Tower lies cial church of the French armies. And in the the Champ-de-Mars, a vast park ideal for Église du Dôme lies the Emperor Napoleon, relaxing, picnicking and admiring the spar- in his tomb of red popyy— the last big kling of 20,000 lightbulbs on the Tower, for highlight of a visit to Invalides. the first five minutes of every hour from • MUSÉE DE L’ARMÉE – TOMBEAU DE NAPOLÉON IER: nightfall. The Grand Palais Éphémère, whose 129 rue de Grenelle (7th). M La Tour-o design has been entrusted to architect Maubourg. 01 44 42 38 77. Daily: 10am- Jean-Michel Wilmotte, will occupy the end 6pm, except 1 Jan, 1 May and 25 Dec. Tues: until of the garden, from January 2021 … until the 9pm (for the Aile Orient (East Wing), the Église end of the Olympic and Paralympic Games du Dôme and the Tombeau de Napoléon I)er in 2024. Behind the Champ-de-Mars stands during temporary exhibitions. Full rate the impressive facade of the École Militaire, (access to the permanent collections, the built during the reign of Louis XV. Today, this temporary exhibition, the Église du Dôme, building houses a training school for French the Tombeau de Napoléon Ier, the Musée des army officers. It can be visited during the Plans-Reliefs, and the Musée de l’Ordre de la European Heritage Days. A short walk from Libération): €14. www.musee-armee.fr there are the Unesco headquarters, the seat • MUSÉES DES PLANS-RELIEFS ET DE L’ORDRE of this honourable institution since 1958, DE LA LIBÉRATION: days and opening times vary, and the combined work of several major contact the venue for information. architects and artists of the 20th century: www.museedesplansreliefs.culture.fr Bernard Zehrfuss, Marcel Breuer, Alexander www.ordredelaliberation.fr Calder, Joan Miró, etc. Champ-de-Mars (7th). Mo Bir-Hakeim. 0 892 70 12 39 (€0.35/min). Daily. Anticipated closure 14 July. Opening times vary, contact the venue for information. 2nd floor: lift/full rate: €16.60; stairs/full rate: €10.40. Lift to summit/full rate: €25.90. www.toureiffel.paris 32| THE LEFT BANK