plus… Mur des ‘je t’aime’ In a charming little square on the Place des Abbesses, a 40 m wall2 is decorated with more than 300 ‘I love yous’ in 250 different languages. Square Jehan-Rictus (18th). M Abbesses.o Moulin Rouge Since 1889, the famous cabaret has been adding colour to Parisian nightlife with its legendary French cancan. Basilique 82 bd de Clichy (18th). M Blanche.o 01 53 09 82 82. cathédrale www.moulin-rouge.com Cimetière de Montmartre de Saint-Denis Émile Zola, Stendhal, Gustave Moreau and Dalida are all buried here. The leafy ceme- The history of the place can be traced back to tery is a pleasant place to stroll and contains the 5th century, when a first basilica was built an interesting selection of gravestones. on the burial place of Saint Denis, a martyr 20 av. Rachel (18th). M Place de Clichy.o for his faith, very popular, and considered the first bishop of Paris. The power and prestige of Le BAL the basilica were undisputable from the sixth A dance hall during the roaring twenties, Le century, when the kings and queens of France BAL programmes exhibitions, cinema, per- chose to be buried there. From the Capetian formance … centred on the contemporary dynasty onwards, all French rulers were buried image in all its forms. It also has a bookshop there untilthe death of Louis XVIII (in 1824). and a restaurant. From its ties with the monarchy, the royal 6 imp. de la Défense (18th). necropolis retains an exceptional ensemble M Place de Clichy.o 01 44 70 75 50. of 70 recumbent statues and sculpted tombs, www.le-bal.fr including those of Clovis, François I and Cath- erine de Medici, illustrating the changes in Avenue Junot and Villa Léandre funerary art over the centuries. Other high- While wandering along the elegant Avenue lights of a visit are the family vault of the Junot, one comes across the Villa Léandre, a Bourbons, the chevet of Abbé Suger and cul-de-sac lined with charming Old English- the funerary statues of Louis XVI and Marie- style houses. Antoinette. The current aspect of the Basilique 18th. M Lamarck – Caulaincourt.o de Saint-Denis dates from the 13th century. The stained-glass windows, the rose window DID YOU KNOW? over the central portal and ribbed vaulting – revolutionary techniques at the time – make it In the Jardin des Hauts de Malesher- a prime example of the first Gothic art. bes, designed by Christian de Portzam- 1 rue de la Légion d’honneur. 93200 parc, stands a surprising contemporary Saint-Denis. M Basilique de Saint-Denis.o apartment block, the Flower Tower. This 01 48 09 83 54. 1 Apr to 30 Sept: 10am- greened-over block of flats is the work 6.15pm. 1 Oct to 31 March: 10am-5.15pm. Sun of architect Édouard François and land- from 12 noon. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec and scape gardener Patrick Blanc. 380 giant during some religious services. Full rate: €9. flower pots planted with bamboo deco- www.saint-denis-basilique.fr rate the balconies. 52 IN AND AROUND MONTMARTRE