around Eiffel Tower 1Hôtel National des Invalides From the esplanade, admire the magnifi- cent facade and gilded dome of the Hôtel National des Invalides, a unique feature on the Parisian cityscape, which Louis XIV decided to have built in 1670. Begin your visit in the main courtyard, with its open- air collection of hundred-year-old artillery. From there, make your way to the Musée Eiffel de l’Armmilitary art and history from the 13th cen-ée which houses treasures from Tower tury to the internationalThen there are the Musée20th century.conflicts of the Standing 324 metres tall, the Eiffel Tower is des Plans-Reliefs, with superb models, the not only the symbol of a capital but of an Musée de l’Ordre de la Libération, devoted entire country. Inaugurated in 1889 for the to Free France, and the Historial Charles de Universal Exposition, it continues to attract Gaulle, devoted to the French president who visitors from allover the world. The monu- was the founder of France’s Fifth Republic. ment has also transformed itself over the Beyond the main courtyard is the Cathedral decades. It now boasts a fully-refurbished 1st Saint-Louis-des-Invalides, divided into two floor with a vertiginous glass platform, and parts. Firstly, the Soldiers’ Church, the offi- the possibility of entering the iron frame- cial church of the French armies. And in the work of the structure in order to discover Église du Dôme lies the Emperor Napoleon, first-hand its impressive architecture and in his tomb of red porphyry — the last big engineering. At the base of the Eiffel Tower highlight of a visit to Invalides. lies the Champ-de-Mars, a vast park ideal • MUSÉE DE L’ARMÉE – TOMBEAU DE NAPOLÉON IER: for relaxing, picnicking and admiring the 129 rue de Grenelle (7th). M La Tour-o sparkling of 20,000 lightbulbs on the Tower, Maubourg. 01 44 42 38 77. Daily, except for the first five minutes of every hour from 1 Jan, 1 May and 25 Dec. 1 Apr to 31 Oct: 10am- nightfall. At the opposite end of the garden 6pm. 1 Nov to 31 March: 10am-5pm. Tues: Église is the Wall for Peace, erected in 2000; on its du Dôme open until 9pm (Apr to Sept). glass facades the word ‘peace’ is engraved in Full rate (access to the Musée de l’Armée, 49 languages. Behind it stands the impressive the Tombeau de Napoléon Ier, the Musée des facade of the École Militaire, built during the Plans-Reliefs, the Musée de l’Ordre de la reign of Louis XV. Today, this building houses Libération and the Historial Charles de Gaulle): a training school for French army officers. It €12. www.musee-armee.fr can be visited during the European Heritage • MUSÉES DES PLANS-RELIEFS ET DE L’ORDRE Days. A short walk from there are the Unesco DE LA LIBÉRATION: days and opening times vary, headquarters, the seat of this honourable contact the venue for information. institution since 1958, and the combined www.museedesplansreliefs.culture.fr work of several major architects and artists www.ordredelaliberation.fr of the 20th century: Bernard Zehrfuss, Marcel Breuer, Alexander Calder, Joan Miró, etc. Champ-de-Mars (7th). M Bir-Hakeim.o 0 892 70 12 39 (€0.35/min). Daily. 7 July to 1 Sept: 9am-0.45pm. 2 Sept to 6 July: 9.30am- 11.45pm. 2nd floor: Lift/full rate: €16; Stairs/ full rate: €10. Lift to summit/full rate: €25. www.toureiffel.paris THE LEFT BANK 29