PLUS… Mur des ‘je t’aime’ In a charming li le square on the Place des Abbesses, a 40 m wall2 is decorated with more than 300 ‘I love yous’ in 250 diff erent languages. Square Jehan-Rictus (18th). M Abbesses.o Moulin Rouge Feathers, rhinestones and sequins! Since 1889, evenings at this famous cabaret have been enlivened by the rhythm of the French Basilique Cancan and fabulous Music Hall revues. 82 bd de Clichy (18th). cathédrale M Blanche.o 01 53 09 82 82. www.moulinrouge.com de Saint-Denis Cimetière de Montma re Émile Zola, Stendhal, Gustave Moreau and The history of the place can be traced back to Dalida are all buried here. The leafy ceme- the 5th century, when a first basilica was built tery is a pleasant place to stroll and contains on the burial place of Saint Denis, a ma yr an interesting selection of gravestones. for his faith, very popular, and considered the 20 av. Rachel (18th). M Place de Clichy.o first bishop of Paris. The power and prestige of the basilica were undisputable from the sixth Le BAL century, when the kings and queens of France A dance hall during the roaring twenties, Le chose to be buried there. From the Capetian BAL programmes exhibitions, cinema, per- dynasty onwards, all French rulers were buried formance … centred on the contemporary there untilthe death of Louis XVIII (in 1824). image in all its forms. It also has a bookshop From its ties with the monarchy, the royal and a restaurant. necropolis retains an exceptional ensemble 6 imp. de la Défense (18th). M Placeo of 70 recumbent statues and sculpted tombs, de Clichy. 01 44 70 75 50. www.le-bal.fr including those of Clovis, François I and Cath- erine de Medici, illustrating the changes in Avenue Junot and Villa Léandre funerary a over the centuries. Other high- While wandering along the elegant Avenue lights of a visit are the family vault of the Junot, one comes across the Villa Léandre, a Bourbons, the chevet of Abbé Suger and cul-de-sac lined with charming Old English- the funerary statues of Louis XVI and Marie- style houses. Antoine e. The current aspect of the Basilique 18th. M Lamarck – Caulaincou .o de Saint-Denis dates from the 13th century. The stained-glass windows, the rose window DID YOU KNOW? over the central po al and ribbed vaulting — revolutionary techniques at the time — make In the Jardin des Hauts de Malesher- it a prime example of the first Gothic a . bes, designed by Christian de Po zam- 1 rue de la Légion d’honneur. 93200 Saint-Denis. parc, stands a surprising contemporary M Basilique de Saint-Denis.o 01 48 09 83 54. apa ment block, the Flower Tower. This Daily, except 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec and during greened-over block of flats is the work some religious services. 1 Apr to 30 Sept: 10am- of architect Édouard François and land- 6.15pm. 1 Oct to 31 March: 10am-5.15pm. Sun scape gardener Patrick Blanc. 380 giant from 12 noon. Full rate: €9. flower pots planted with bamboo deco- www.saint-denis-basilique.fr rate the balconies. 52 IN AND AROUND MONTMARTRE