around Eiffel Tower 1Hôtel National des Invalides From the esplanade, admire the magnifi- cent facade and gilded dome of the Hôtel National des Invalides, a unique feature on the Parisian cityscape, which Louis XIV decided to have built in 1670. Begin your visit in the main courtyard, with its open- air collection of hundred-year-old artillery. From there, make your way to the Musée Eiffel de l’Armmilitary art and history from the 13th cen-ée which houses treasures from Tower tury to the internationalThen there are the Musée20th century.conflicts of the Standing 324 metres tall, the Eiffel Tower is des Plans-Reliefs, with superb models, the not only the symbol of a capital but of an Musée de l’Ordre de la Libération, devoted entire country. Inaugurated in 1889 for the to Free France, and the Historial Charles de Universal Exposition, it continues to attract Gaulle, devoted to the French president who visitors from all over the world. The monu- was the founder of France’s Fifth Republic. ment has also transformed itself over the Beyond the main courtyard is the Cathedral decades. It now boasts a fully-refurbished 1st Saint-Louis-des-Invalides, divided into two Lo parts. Firstly, the Soldiers’ Church, the offi- floor with a vertiginous glass platform, and cial church of the French armies. And in the l the possibility of entering the iron frame- Église du Dôme lies the Emperor Napoleon, work of the structure in order to discover in his tomb of red porphyry — the last big first-hand its impressive architecture and highlight of a visit to Invalide 11 engineering. At the base of the Eiffel Tower s. onn lies the Champ-de-Mars, a vast park ideal • MUSÉE DE L’ARMÉE – TOMBEAU DE NAPOLÉON IER: 11 129 rue de Grenelle (7th). M La Tour-o for relaxing, picnicking and admiring the Maubourg. 01 44 42 38 77. Daily, except main-é sparkling of 20,000 lightbulbs on the Tower, 1 Jan,1 May and 25 Dec. 1 Apr to 31 Oct: 10am- ill n for the first five minutes of every hour from 6pm. 1 Nov to 31 March: 10am-5pm. Tues: Église nightfall. At the opposite end of the garden du Dôme open until 9pm (Apr to Sept). ulpi e is the Wall for Peace, erected in 2000; on its glass facades the word ‘peace’ is engraved in Full rate (access to the Musée de l’Armée, 49 languages. Behind it stands the impressive the Tombeau de Napoléon Ier, the Musée des facade of the École Militaire, built during the Plans-Reliefs, the Musée de l’Ordre de la reign of Louis XV. Today, this building houses Libération and the Historial Charles de Gaulle): a training school for French army officers. It €12. www.musee-armee.fr O • MUSÉES DES PLANS-RELIEFS ET DE L’ORDRE can be visited during the European Heritage DE LA LIBÉRATION: days and opening times vary, Days. A short walk from there are the Unesco contact the venue for information. headquarters, the seat of this honourable www.museedesplansreliefs.culture.fr institution since 1958, and the combined www.ordredelaliberation.fr work of several major architects and artists of the 20th century: Bernard Zehrfuss, Marcel Breuer, Alexander Calder, Joan Miró, etc. Champ-de-Mars (7th). M Bir-Hakeim.o 0 892 70 12 39 (€0.35/min). Daily: 9.30am- 11.45pm. 22 June to 2 Sept 2019: 9am-12.45am. Anticipated closure 14 July. 2nd floor: lift/full rate: €16.30; stairs/full rate: €10.20. Lift to summit/full rate: €25.50. www.toureiffel.paris THE LEFT BANK 29 r Q. o . litz