16th-century mansion. Paintings by Boucher and Fragonard may be admired alongside drawings by Watteau, sculptures, furniture and precious objects (jewellery, snuff boxes and Dresden china). 8 rue Elzévir (3rd). M Saint-Paul.o 01 40 27 07 21. Daily: 10am-6pm, except Mon and on certain public holidays. Permanent collections free. Temporary exhibitions/full rate: €8. www.museecognacqjay.paris.fr 24Musée National Picasso – Paris The Hôtel Salé, a 17th-century mansion sit- Place uated in the Marais, is a fine setting for thecollections of the Musée Picasso Paris. The des Vosges refurbishment of the spaces, by the architectJean-François Bodin, facilitates the circula- The veritable jewel of the Marais district, the tion of visitors in a historic setting with pared Place des Vosges is one of the oldest squares down interiors, beautifully showcasing the in Paris and also one of the most beautiful. prolific work of Picasso: sculpture, ceramics, Visitors can stroll under its arcades or along photographs and, of course, paintings. the pathways of its central garden and 5 rue de Thorigny (3rd). M Saint-Paul.o admire the superb red brick facades of the 01 85 56 00 36. Tues to Fri: 10.30am-6pm. town houses that surround it. Shops, open Sat, Sun, school holidays (Paris zone) and public on Sundays, contribute to the lively atmos- holidays: 9.30am-6pm. Closed Mon, 1 Jan, 1 May phere. The square is also the ideal starting and 25 Dec. Full rate: €12.50. point for a stroll in the Marais, one of the www.museepicassoparis.fr capital’s most charming historic quarters for 25Musée d’Art et d’Histoire its rich heritage and atmosphere. Many pri- du Judaïsme vate mansions from the 17th and 18th cen- The museum presents the evolution of the turies have been transformed into interna- Jewish communities through their tionally-famous museums: Musée National some- Picasso – Paris, Victor Hugo’s house … The times tragic history, their cultural heritage Rue des Rosiers, the epicentre of Paris’s and ancestral traditions, with an important Jewish community, is also worth visiting for focus on the history of Jews in France. The its atmosphere, boutiques and restaurants. private mansion of Saint-Aignan houses the Countless bars and clubs have made the collections: cult art objects, textiles, manu- Marais the biggest gay district in France. scripts, and rare documents on intellectual 4th. M Bastille.o movements. Many renowned artists are also exhibited, such as Marc Chagall, Chaïm Sou- tine and Christian Boltanski. around Hôtel de Saint-Aignan. 71 rue du Temple (3rd). Place des Vosges M Rambuteau.o 01 53 01 86 60. Daily, except Mon, 1 Jan, 1 May, on Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur. Permanent collections: Tues to Fri, 23Musée Cognacq-Jay – 11am-6pm; Sat and Sun, 10am-6pm. Temporary Le Goût duxviiie exhibitions: Tues, Thurs and Fri, 11am-6pm; Wed, Husband and wife Cognacq-Jay, founders 11am-9pm; Sat and Sun, 10am-7pm; public of La Samaritaine department store and holidays, 11am-7pm. Permanent collections/ keen art lovers, bequeathed their collec- full rate: €9. Permanent collections + temporary tions to the City of Paris in 1928. Visitors exhibition/full rate: €10. www.mahj.org can discover an exceptional ensemble of works from the 18th century in a stunning 26 HISTORIC HEART